What does an American outlet look like? List of plug standards

More than once I have encountered the bewilderment of our tourists, and especially female tourists, who took with them equipment from Russia (a hair dryer, for example), but in the USA the device barely works. You shouldn’t immediately scold the manufacturer, it’s all about tension.

In America, the voltage in the network is 110 volts, so European equipment designed for voltage from 220 to 240 volts works here, frankly speaking, very poorly. Don't count on your favorite hairdryer or curling iron to help you out during your American trip. Either leave them at home and don’t take up space in your suitcase with them, or make sure in advance that the device is capable of working in full mode - there is equipment that can adapt to any voltage; information can be found in the instructions for the device. Many devices work without problems in any country in the world, but alas, not all.

There are such “stations” in many hotels, but sometimes even Apple owners can’t get anywhere without an adapter.

As for phones, cameras and cameras, you can charge them, but accordingly it will take a little longer than at home. Therefore, make sure in advance that the equipment is ready for use upon arrival; if you have a tour the next day, for example, it will not be pleasant if the camera is not charged within the usual 2 hours.

An important point is the adapter. If you can live without a hairdryer, and hotels usually have one, then such a number will not work with a telephone; without it, most people will get nowhere. Sockets in the USA are completely different from European ones. There is no way to do this without an adapter. Of course, you will find an adapter when you arrive in the USA, but it is not always easy. In many hotels, for some inexplicable reason, there are no adapters. And the “star rating” of a hotel doesn’t mean anything here - sometimes a hostel has an adapter, but a luxury hotel does not. And in the supermarket or pharmacy closest to the hotel (sounds strange, but more on that a little later) there may not be adapters, as we have seen more than once from the example of our tourists, with whom we were looking for adapters upon their arrival.


American outlet

Now imagine the situation - you have just arrived, you are tired, you are not very confident in your English, but you need to charge your devices so as not to be left without communication in the morning. Wandering around the city, not knowing where to get this adapter, is not a pleasant prospect. You can, of course, call the guide, but what if you don’t have a guide or the tour is a group one? In a word, to protect yourself from minor troubles like this, it is better to buy an adapter at the airport (they definitely exist there and are cheaper than in the USA - few people think of buying them upon departure) or in general in your city - nowadays you can find a complete set not a problem at any hardware store.

Returning to the topic of hair dryers and other styling equipment, if you did not bring one with you and purchased replacements from a local store, please ensure that they are rated for more than 110 volts before using them in Russia. Unlike the situation with European devices, which here, in the worst case, simply will not work as needed. Topical appliances can cause serious harm to you at home. My friend, who bought a straightener here, when she tried to use it at home, instead of ideal straight hair, she got volume, and what a volume. The iron exploded in her hands. You can, of course, sue the manufacturer, but it was clearly written on the box (albeit on English) that the device can ONLY operate at a voltage of 110 volts. Which is fair, considering the cost of the iron is $18.

In order not to repeat such an incident in your example, when you see equipment here, be it a toaster for $15 or a super hair dryer for $300, you should make sure that it is adapted for higher voltage and you can use it safely in your country. Those devices that are cheap are most likely designed to serve only in the USA, and even then not for long. The price-quality ratio has not been canceled in any corner of the planet. You shouldn’t sweep $20 coffee makers and waffle makers off the shelves - they are, of course, very nice, and just like in the movies, but they are completely useless in Russia. If you buy a phone or camera here, then there is no need to worry - this equipment is precisely designed to operate safely around the world. But with everything else (especially household appliances) you should be on alert. Especially if you are planning to give someone a gift. It’s unlikely that your boss, having received a mini-coffee maker as a souvenir, will thank you for the fire at home or in the office, and for his phobia of electronics. And then try to prove that you didn’t try to kill your boss. So, everything is like Hippocrates - do no harm.

Well, if you do acquire safe “adapted” equipment, then again, don’t forget about the adapter. It’s easy to purchase an adapter for a European outlet here; everyone expects that Americans are traveling and will certainly buy an adapter at home, anticipating possible troubles. Why don't we follow their example?

Buying electronics and household appliances in the United States is a very common phenomenon today, since prices for mobile phones, tablets, laptops, electric shavers and much more are sometimes much lower there. In any case, the price tags for Apple products, in particular the flagship smartphone - iPhone, can differ significantly, especially if we are talking about used ones. or "refurbished". But the voltage in the US power grid is 110 volts, versus 220, so common in Russia, Ukraine, Kazakhstan, and indeed throughout Europe. And the shape of the power plug is radically different. What to do? Is the purchase justified? Will this be a problem?

Let's figure it out. Let's start with the main points. Let's start with the fact that in the descriptions of goods sold in US online stores, in particular on Amazon.com, eBay.com and other sites, specifications regarding power supply are extremely rarely indicated. Get additional information, asking a question is not always possible - they may simply not answer you. The fact is that all these products are mainly designed for the domestic market of the United States and it is too difficult for the seller or the online store support service to delve into “some kind of tension there.” Yes, they don't have to. And you can understand them. Therefore, in most cases you will have to answer the question about the advisability of a purchase yourself. But it's not as difficult as it seems. Everything is much simpler. It is enough to remember the following main points.

Today, 100% of laptops, ultrabooks, smartphones, tablets, phablets, trimmers, epilators, electric shavers, wireless speakers and other low power electrical appliances regardless of country of production operate in the voltage range 110 – 220 volts and can be used worldwide without problems.

Without exception, all powerful electrical appliances, regardless of size, such as a hair dryer, curling iron, iron, dishwasher, TV, monitor, toaster, electric kettle, food processor, coffee maker, desktop (desktop computer), robots and just vacuum cleaners do not have universal power supplies And in the USAoperate strictly with a voltage of 100 - 110 volts.

Isn't it difficult? Now, simply focusing on the name of the product, you can answer the question about the advisability of buying it in the USA. Now a little more detail.

Universal electrical appliances operating in the voltage range 110 – 220 volts

Take any laptop, smartphone or trimmer, look at the information that is present on the charger or power supply. You'll find a range there permissible stresses electrical network for safe operation. Look for the "INPUT" line. Usually this is 110 - 220 volts, or 100 - 240 volts.

Here is a standard charger Samsung smartphone. In the column of the permissible input voltage - "INPUT", the range is indicated from 100 to 240 volts. This means that you can use it anywhere in the world without any problems.

The charger looks similar Apple tablet iPad, same voltage range: 100 – 240 volts.

Or any electric razor, be it Philips, Braun or Panasonic, still the same 100 - 240 volts.

You don’t have to bother searching for data on the operating voltages of wireless speakers, laptops, winders (device for factory mechanical watch), video and photo cameras. Everywhere you will find a universal operating voltage range.

You can also ignore the second parameter, namely the current frequency, indicated in hertz; it is universal throughout the world and amounts to 50-60 hertz.

Conclusion? You can purchase small electrical appliances without hesitation. You can immediately plug them into a power outlet if you have a special adapter for the power plug.

Power plug adapter

Without exception, all electrical appliances sold in the United States are equipped with a power plug with a grounding connection (Type B) or without a grounding connection (Type A). The first option, a grounding plug, is quite rare. Here's what they look like.

Power Plug with Grounding Pin

Power plug without grounding pin

In the European Union, all countries of the former USSR, China, Japan, and African countries, a completely different shape of plug (type C) is common. The difference is visible to the naked eye, as they say.

Standard A (USA) and C (Europe, Asia) plugs

This problem can be solved very simply - by purchasing the so-called. "universal adapter". And if the power plug of the purchased electrical appliance has a grounding contact, then you need to purchase an adapter that is suitable for both plugs with and without a grounding contact. If there is no grounding contact on the plug, then a regular adapter without grounding will do.

Network adapters from the American power cord plug to the European one. For plugs without ground pin (right) and universal (left).

The adapter is simply put on the plug and your electrical appliance is ready for use.


Option for purchasing such an adapter - universal solution. It usually costs $1-2. As a rule, they are sold in electrical goods stores. There are almost always some models in stock. According to reviews from many users, such adapters can be purchased on radio markets without any problems. Many users prefer to purchase them online, usually five to ten pieces at a time, usually buying on the Chinese site Aliexpress.com, where they are always sold in wide range with free shipping.

But don't go for the cheap! Extremely low price adapter usually means approximately the same quality. Crumpling, foul-smelling plastic, heating and bending contacts, an adapter falling out of the socket completely or in parts, an electrical appliance plug that does not fit well into the adapter - all this is not far-fetched. This real problems waiting for you if you decide to save money and buy outright garbage. Plus, the danger of a plug melting, damage to an electrical appliance, and even a fire has not been canceled. A good adapter will last for many years and it costs 1-2 dollars, but not 10 cents.

There is another option to solve the problem - replacing it with the “European standard” power plug or entire cord. This manipulation is not complicated and can be done in service center or if you are friends with a screwdriver and a head - just at home. The only thing I would like to note: when replacing the cord or plug yourself you risk damaging the electrical appliance and even getting an electric shock, so proceed only if you are 100% confident in yourself.

If you change the plug or cord, it is best to use original ones from another electrical appliance. Replacement plugs and cords are usually of very low quality and cannot be compared with the original ones.

Here, for example, is a solution to the problem with the power plug for a laptop received from the USA. The original cord (on the left) went into the trash and a new cord was simply purchased that goes from the power supply to the outlet (on the right). This is the solution not the best, because cords sold separately, we repeat, are usually of low quality. It would be optimal to buy a high-quality adapter while keeping the original cord.


Electrical appliances operating in the voltage range 100-110 volts

Now let’s consider another version of the situation: the purchased electrical appliance is designed strictly for a voltage of 100-110 volts. These are all large stationary electrical appliances that rarely travel between continents. In addition to TVs with washing machines This includes small but powerful electrical appliances: irons, hair dryers, curling irons, electric kettles, toasters, vacuum cleaners.

This problem can be solved, but not as easily and cheaply as with an adapter. You will be helped out by purchasing a special device, the so-called. a step-down transformer, which converts the mains voltage of 220 volts, automatically lowering it to the 110 volts required by the device. After purchasing such a transformer, you no longer need to buy any adapters, because All the necessary connectors are already on the device.

On the user’s side, no settings are required other than connecting the power plugs; you just have to connect the existing electrical appliance to the network through this transformer each time. But the moment that is necessary must be taken into account when purchase is the power of your electrical appliance.

Powerful electrical appliances require a step-down transformer more power . You need to determine maximum power of your electrical appliance, which is usually indicated in Watts (look for “W” or “Watt”) and, based on this information, buy a step-down transformer.

The dimensions of step-down transformers vary. For low-power electrical appliances - up to 150-200 Watt (printer, copier), it is slightly larger than a conventional power supply, and for higher power, for example 1000-3000 Watt (hair dryer, vacuum cleaner), its dimensions can reach the size of a two-liter juice box.

This is what a standard low-power step-down transformer looks like. Please note that all such devices already have an American standard plug connector.

But here is a step-down transformer of higher power, designed for as many as two electrical appliances.

Trademark "Shtil", Russian Federation.

Step-down transformers are usually not easy to find in electrical stores. It’s easier to order online, for example with free delivery; they are available in Chinese Aliexpress or the Amazon hypermarket. Cost from $20, for devices with a power of up to 200 Watts. The more powerful the connected device, the more expensive the transformer; for example, for devices with a power of up to 3000 watts it will already cost from $100.

Just as in the case of adapters, you shouldn’t save much here. You risk getting a problem.

And finally, answers to several common questions.

Does a step-down transformer affect performance? Will the connected device deteriorate over time?

Of course not, on the contrary, the transformer here will play the role of a voltage stabilizer. So, if the power is selected correctly and a good, high-quality transformer is purchased, then everything will be fine.

When is it justified to purchase an electrical appliance that requires a step-down transformer?

This is usually an expensive piece of equipment, but you can save a lot of money when purchasing it. Or devices that domestic market simply not. There is no point in buying a simple 110-volt vacuum cleaner in the USA, paying for its delivery, and then purchasing a step-down transformer for $100.

I found electrical appliances designed for 220 volts in the USA. Can I buy them?

Yes, there are such products and even entire stores. Of course you can buy. Usually these products are already equipped with a Europlug.

What happens if a device designed strictly for 110 volts is connected to a 220 volt network?

You risk simply ruining it. There may be other consequences. It's better not to try. It definitely won't work.

What if the power of the step-down transformer is not enough?

In this case, you should also refrain from using it. It’s good if there is a built-in fuse that will simply turn off the electrical appliance when it heats up. What if not? It's not worth checking.

List of plug standards

List of plug standards

The two most common standards in the world are voltage and frequency. One of them is the American standard 110-127 Volt 60 Hertz, together with plugs A and B. The other standard is the European standard, 220-240 Volt 50 Hertz, plugs types C - M.

Most countries have adopted one of these two standards, although transitional or unique standards are sometimes found. On the map we can see in which countries certain standards are used.

Voltage/Frequency.

Types of forks.


Types currently in use

Electrical plugs and sockets vary from country to country in shape, size, maximum current rating, and other features. The type used in each country is fixed by law by the adoption of national standards. In this article, each type is designated by a letter from a US government publication.

Type A

Non-polarized Type A plug

NEMA 1-15 (North American 15 A/125 V, ungrounded), according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type A 1-15

Unusual American 5-socket Type A block, circa 1928

This type of plug and receptacle, with two flat parallel non-coplanar (not in the plane of the plug body) blades and slots, is used in most North American countries and on the east coast of South America, with devices that do not require grounding, such as lamps and small devices with double isolation. This type accepted by 38 countries outside North America and standardized in the United States by the National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) NEMA 1-15 receptacles have been banned in new buildings in the United States and Canada since 1962, but remain in many older homes and still sold for repair. Type A plugs are still very common because they are compatible with Type B sockets.

Originally, the pins of the plug and the slot of the socket were the same height, and the plug could be inserted into the socket in any orientation. Modern plugs and sockets are polarized with a wider neutral contact so that the plug can only be inserted the right way. Polarized Type A plugs will not fit into non-polarized Type A receptacles because both slots in the receptacle are equally narrow. However, both non-polarized and polarized Type A plugs fit into a polarized Type A receptacle and a Type B receptacle. Some devices that do not care about the location of the live and neutral wires, such as sealed power supplies, are still manufactured with non-polarized Type A plugs (both blades are narrow ).

Japanese socket with grounding plug, for washing machine.

JIS C 8303, Class II (Japanese 15 A/100 V, ungrounded)

The Japanese plug and socket are identical to NEMA 1-15 type. However, Japan has stricter fork body sizing requirements, different labeling requirements, and requires mandatory testing and approval by the Ministry of International Trade and Industry (MITI) or JIS.

Many Japanese sockets and extension cords are non-polarized—the slots in the sockets are the same size—and only accept non-polarized plugs. Japanese plugs will generally fit most North American outlets without issue, but polarized North American plugs may require an adapter or replacement to fit into older Japanese outlets. However, mains voltage in Japan it is 100V, and the frequency in the east is 50Hz, not 60Hz, so North American devices can be connected to the Japanese network, but correct work not guaranteed.

Type B

NEMA 5-15 (North American 15 A/125 V, grounded), according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type A 5-15

A type B fork has, in addition to parallel flat blades, a round or letter-shaped blade U grounding terminal (US NEMA 5-15/Canadian CSA 22.2, _ 42). It is rated for a current of 15 Amps and a voltage of 125 Volts. The grounding contact is longer than the phase and neutral contacts, which means that the grounding connection is guaranteed before the power is turned on. Sometimes both power pins on Type B plugs are narrow because the ground pin prevents the plug from being plugged in incorrectly, but there are gaps in the socket different sizes for correct connection of type A plugs. If the ground contact is located at the bottom, the phase will be on the right.

The 5-15 socket is the standard throughout North America (Canada, USA and Mexico). True, Mexico also uses Japanese-style sockets. The 5-15 socket is also used in central America, the Caribbean, northern South America (Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and parts of Brazil), Japan, Taiwan and Saudi Arabia.

In some parts of the US, new buildings are now required to install electrical outlets with protective curtains to prevent foreign objects from being inserted into them.

A 5-20R receptacle with a neutral T-slot installed with the ground pin facing up.

In theaters this connector is sometimes called PBG(Parallel Blade with Ground, parallel knives with the ground), Edison or Hubbell, by the name of the main manufacturer.

NEMA 5-20 (North American 20 A/125 V, grounded) according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type A 5-20

In new residential areas, since about 1992, 20-amp T-slot receptacles accept both 15-amp parallel-blade plugs and 20-amp plugs.

JIS C 8303, Class I (Japanese 15 A/100 V, grounded)

Japan also uses a Type B plug, similar to the North American one. However, it is less common than its type A equivalent.

Type C

Plug and socket CEE 7/16

(Not to be confused with three-pin IEC connectors C13 and C14)

CEE 7/16 (Europlug (Europlug) 2.5 A/250 V, without grounding), according to GOST 7396 .1-89 - type C5 option II

For more information on this topic, see: Europlug.

This two-pin plug is known in Europe as Europlug (Europlug, not to be confused with Schuko, which is called Europlug in Russia). The plug is not grounded and has two 4mm round prongs that usually meet slightly towards their free ends. It can be inserted into any socket that accepts 4mm diameter round pins spaced 19mm apart. It is described in CEE 7/16 and also defined in the Italian standard CEI 23-5 and the Russian standard GOST 7396.

The Europlug is equipped with class II devices throughout continental Europe (Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Hungary, Germany, Greenland, Greece, Denmark, Iceland, Spain, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Macedonia, the Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Turkey, Ukraine, Finland, France, Croatia, Czech Republic, Switzerland, Sweden and Estonia). It is also used in the Middle East, most African countries, South America (Bolivia, Brazil, Peru, Uruguay and Chile), Asia (Bangladesh, Indonesia and Pakistan) as well as in the former Soviet republics and many developing countries. It is also used in many countries along with the BS 1363 plug, especially the former British colonies.

This plug is designed for a current of 2.5 A. Since it is non-polarized, it can be inserted into the socket in any position, so the phase and neutral are connected randomly.

The spacing and length of the pins allow it to be safely plugged into most sockets CEE 7/17, type E (French), type H (Israeli), CEE 7/4 (Schuko), CEE 7/7, type J (Swiss), type K ( Danish) and type L (Italian).

Fork CEE 7/17

CEE 7/17 (German-French 16 A/250 V, ungrounded), according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type C6

This plug also has two round prongs, but they are 4.8mm in diameter, like the E and F types. The plug has a round plastic or rubber base that prevents it from being plugged into the small Europlug sockets. The plug fits only into large round sockets for types E and F. The plug has both a hole for the grounding pin and contact strips for the side contacts. The plug is used in conjunction with class II devices designed for high operating current (vacuum cleaners, hair dryers), and in South Korea - with any household appliances that do not require grounding. It is also defined in the Italian standard CEI 23-5. Can be inserted into an Israeli H-type socket, although this is not recommended as they are designed for smaller diameter pins.

Hybrid E/F type

CEE 7/7 plug

CEE 7/7 (French-German 16 A/250 V, with grounding), according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type C4

To be compatible with types E and F, a CEE 7/7 plug has been developed. It is polarized when used with a type E socket, but in type F sockets the connection between the phase and neutral wires is not observed. The plug is rated for 16 A. It has grounding clamps on both sides for connection to a CEE 7/4 socket outlet and a socket contact for the grounding pin of a Type E socket outlet. Appliances supplied to countries using the E or F standard are supplied with this type of plug.

Type G

BS 1363 (British 13 A/230-240 V 50 Hz, earthed, fused), according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type B2

Plug according to British standard 1363. This type is used not only in the UK, but also in Ireland, Sri Lanka, Bahrain, UAE, Qatar, Yemen, Oman, Cyprus, Malta, Gibraltar, Botswana, Ghana, Hong Kong, Macau (Macao) , Brunei, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Bangladesh, Kenya, Uganda, Nigeria, Mauritius, Iraq, Kuwait, Tanzania and Zimbabwe. BS 1363 is also the standard for some former British colonies in the Caribbean such as Belize, Dominica, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines and Grenada. It is also used in Saudi Arabia in 230V appliances, although 110V appliances with a NEMA connector are more common.

This plug, commonly known as a "13-amp plug", is a large plug with three rectangular prongs forming a triangle. The phase and neutral contacts are 18 mm long and spaced 22 mm apart. 9mm of insulation at the base of the pins prevents accidental contact with exposed conductor when the plug is partially inserted. The ground pin is approximately 4 x 8 mm and approximately 23 mm long.

The plug has a built-in fuse. It is needed to protect the supply wire, as in the UK ring wiring is used, protected only by a central fuse, usually 32A. Any fuse can be inserted into the plug, but according to safety requirements it must be designed for maximum current protected device. The fuse is 1 inch (25.4 mm) long in accordance with British Standard BS 1362. Connections to sockets are made with the neutral wire on the left and the live wire on the right (looking at the front of the socket), so that a blown fuse in the plug breaks the live wire. The same convention is used for everyone British sockets, connected directly to the “main” wiring.

British Wiring Regulations (BS 7671) require socket outlets in homes to have a shutter on the live and neutral openings to prevent anything other than electrical plugs from being inserted. The shutters open when a longer ground pin is inserted. The curtains also prevent the use of plugs of other standards. Plugs for Class II devices that do not require grounding have a grounding pin that is often made of plastic and serves only to open the shutters and comply with the phase and neutral connection rules. It is generally possible to open the shutters with the blade of a screwdriver to insert a Type C plug (but not the BS 4573 British razor plug) or other types of plugs, but this is dangerous as these plugs do not have a safety lock and may jam in the socket.

BS 1363 plugs and sockets began appearing in 1946, and the BS 1363 standard was first published in 1947. By the late 1950s it had replaced the earlier Type D BS 546 in new devices, and by the late 1960s Type D devices were converted to Type BS 1363. Socket outlets often have phase switches for convenience and safety.

Type H

Two Israeli plugs and one socket. On the left is the old standard fork, on the right is the modernization of 1989.

SI 32 (Israeli 16 A/250 V, with grounding)

This plug, defined in SI 32 (IS16A-R), is not found anywhere except Israel and is not compatible with other types of sockets. It has three flat pins arranged in the shape of the letter Y. The phase and neutral are spaced 19 mm apart. The H-type plug is designed for 16A current, but in practice, the thin flat pins may cause the plug to overheat when connected powerful devices. In 1989 the standard was revised. Now three round 4mm pins are used, placed in the same way. Receptacles manufactured since 1989 accept both flat and round prongs to accommodate both types of plugs. This also allows you to connect type H sockets to type C plugs, which are used in Israel for ungrounded devices. Older sockets, circa 1970s production, have both flat and round holes for the phase and neutral to accept both Type C and H plugs. As of 2008, Type H sockets, which accept only older Type H plugs, very rare in Israel.

This plug is also used in areas controlled by the Palestinian National Authority in the West Bank and Gaza Strip.


Type I

Australian 3 pin double socket with switches

AS/NZS 3112 (Australasian type 10 A/240 V)

For more information on this topic see: AS 3112.

This type of plug, used in Australia, New Zealand, Fiji, Argentina and Papua New Guinea, has a grounding pin and two flat power contacts in an inverted V shape. The flat blades measure 6.5 mm × 1.6 mm and are mounted under an angle of 30° to the vertical with a nominal distance between them of 13.7 mm. Australian and New Zealand wall sockets almost always have switches for added safety, just like in England. An ungrounded version of this plug, with two angled blades but no grounding pin, is used with small devices, have double insulation, but wall power sockets always have three contacts, including ground.

There are several variants of the AS/NZS 3112 plug, including a version with a wider grounding pin, used by devices with current consumption up to 15 A; Receptacles that support this contact also support 10-amp plugs. There is a 20 Amp version, with all three pins oversized, as well as 25 and 32 Amp options, with the pins larger than the 20 Amp plug, forming an inverted "L" for 25A and a horizontal "U" for 32A . These outlets accept plugs rated at or below the maximum amperage rating, but not plugs rated at higher amperages. For example, a 10A plug will fit into all sockets, but a 20A plug will only fit into 20, 25, and 32A sockets).

The Australasian standard plug/socket system was originally called the C112 standard (originating in 1937 as a temporary solution, adopted as a formal standard in 1938), which was replaced by the AS 3112 standard in 1990. As of 2005, the last significant change is AS/NZS 3112:2004, which requires insulation on supply contacts. However, equipment and cables manufactured before 2003 are permitted.

Chinese sockets accepting type A, C (top) and I (bottom, standard) plugs

China Compulsory Certification Mark (CCC)

CPCS-CCC (Chinese 10 A/250 V), according to GOST 7396.1-89 - type A10-20

Although Chinese sockets have 1mm longer pins, they can accept Australasian plugs. The standard for Chinese plugs and sockets is established by documents GB 2099.1-1996 and GB 1002-1996. As part of China's commitment to join the WTO, introduced new system CPCS (Compulsory Product Certification System) certification, and the corresponding Chinese plugs receive the CCC (China Compulsory Certification) mark. The plug has three contacts, grounding. Rated at 10A, 250V and used in Class 1 devices.

In China, sockets are installed the other way around, upside down, compared to Australasian ones.

China also uses US-Japanese Type A plugs and sockets for Class II devices. However, the voltage between the contacts of a Chinese socket is always 220V, regardless of the type of plug.

IRAM 2073 (Argentine 10A/250V)

The Argentinean plug has three contacts, grounding, and is designed for a current of 10A, voltage of 250V. The standard is defined by the Argentine Institute for Standardization and Certification (Instituto Argentino de Normalización y Certificación, IRAM) and is used with Class 1 devices in Argentina and Uruguay.

This fork is similar in appearance to Australasian and Chinese forks. The pin length is the same as the Chinese version. The most important difference from the Australasian plug is that the phase and neutral are connected to it in reverse.


Type J

Type J plugs and sockets

SEV 1011 (Swiss type 10 A/250 V)

Switzerland has its own standard, described in document SEV 1011. (ASE1011/1959 SW10A-R) This plug is similar to the Euro plug type C (CEE 7/16), except that it has an offset ground pin and no pins. insulated sleeves so that plugs that are not fully inserted into non-recessed receptacles present a risk of electric shock. Sockets used in kitchens, bathrooms and other wet areas are recessed, but those in other places are not. Some plugs and adapters have tapered ends and can be used anywhere, while others only fit into non-recessed outlets. Swiss sockets accept Swiss plugs or Euro plugs (CEE 7/16). There is also an ungrounded two-pin version with the same shape, dimensions and live-to-neutral spacing as the SEV 1011, but with a flatter hexagonal shape. The plug fits round and hexagonal Swiss sockets and CEE 7/16 sockets. Designed for current up to 10 A.

A less common version has 3 square contacts and is rated at 16 A. Above 16 A, the equipment must either be connected to the mains in a permanent way, with suitable branch protection, or connected using a suitable industrial connector.


Type K

Danish 107-2-D1, standard DK 2-1a, with round power pins and semi-circular ground pin

Danish computer socket, with rotated flat pins and semicircular ground pin (used mainly for professional equipment), standard DK 2-5a

Section 107-2-D1 (Danish 10 A/250 V, grounded)

This Danish standard plug is described in Danish Plug Equipment Section 107-2-D1 Standard sheet (SRAF1962/DB 16/87 DN10A-R). The plug is similar to the French Type E, except that it has a grounding pin instead of a grounding hole (it's the other way around in a socket). This makes the Danish socket more discreet than the French socket, which appears as a depression in the wall to protect the ground pin from damage and from touching the power pins.

The Danish socket also accepts Europlug type C CEE 7/16 or type E/F CEE 7/17 Schuko-French hybrid plug. Type F CEE 7/4 (Schuko), E/F CEE 7/7 (Schuko-French hybrid), and type E grounded French plug will also fit into this outlet, but should not be used for devices that require a grounding contact. Both plugs are rated at 10A.

The variant (standard DK 2-5a) of the Danish plug is intended only for interference-proof computer sockets. It fits into the corresponding computer socket and the normal K-type socket, but the normal K-type plugs are intentionally made to not fit into the dedicated computer socket. This plug is often used in companies, but very rarely at home.

There is also an option for medical equipment, with a rectangular left pin. It is often used in life support systems.

Traditionally, all Danish sockets were equipped with a switch to prevent touching live contacts when connecting/disconnecting the plug. Today, the use of sockets without switches is permitted, but such sockets must have a recess that protects a person from touching live contacts. However, usually the shape of the plug makes it very difficult to touch the contacts when connecting/disconnecting.

Since the early 1990s, grounded sockets have become mandatory in all new electrical installations in Denmark. Old sockets do not need to be grounded, but from 1 July 2008 all sockets, including old ones, must be protected by an RCD (HFI in Danish terminology).

Since 1 July 2008, type E (French, two-pin, earthing pin) wall sockets have been permitted in Denmark. This was done because equipment with K-type plugs was not sold to individuals and to break the monopoly of Lauritz Knudsen, the only company making K-type plugs and sockets.

Schuko type F sockets will not be permitted. The reason is that most plugs currently used in Denmark will get stuck in a Schuko socket. This can damage the socket. This may also cause poor contact, with the risk of overheating and fire. Broken F sockets can often be seen in German hotels frequented by Danes. Many international travel adapters are sold outside Denmark with plugs conforming to types C CEE 7/16 (Europlug) and E/F CEE 7/7 (Franco-Schuko hybrid), which can be used in Denmark.

Type L

Plug and socket 23-16/VII

A visual comparison of Italian type L plugs rated at 16 Amps (left) and 10 Amps (right).

Italian electrical installation with sockets of both types L (16 A on the left; 10 A on the right).

CEI 23-16/VII (Italian type 10 A/250 V and 16 A/250 V)

The Italian standard for earthed plug/socket outlets, CEI 23-16/VII, includes two models, 10 A and 16 A, differing in pin diameter and pin spacing (see details below). Both are symmetrical and allow you to connect the phase with the neutral in any way.

The double standard was adopted because in Italy, until the second half of the 20th century, electricity for lighting ( Luce= lighting) and for other purposes ( Forza= force, electromotive force; or Uso Promiscuo= general purpose) were sold at different tariffs, with different taxes, were considered separate meters, and were transmitted over different wires ending different sockets. Although both electric lines (and the corresponding tariffs) were combined in the summer of 1974, many homes remained double-wired and double-metered for many years. Thus, two sizes of plugs and sockets became the de facto standard, still in use today and standardized in document CEI 23-16/VII. Older products are often equipped with one of the standard sockets, either 10 A or 16 A, requiring the use of an adapter to connect the other size plug.

Ungrounded Euro plugs CEE 7/16 (type C) are also widely used; they are standardized in Italy as CEI 23-5 and are suitable for most devices with low current requirements and double insulation.

Devices with CEE 7/7 plugs are also often sold in Italy, however, not every socket can accept them, since the contacts of CEE 7/7 plugs are thicker than Italian ones. Adapters are cheap and are often used to connect CEE 7/7 plugs to CEI 23-16/VII sockets, but the rated current requirement is often violated (16A instead of 10A), which can lead to an unsafe connection in some cases.

CEI 23-16/VII (Italian 10 A/250 V)

The 10 amp variety extends the CEE 7/16 by adding a center ground pin of the same size. Therefore, CEI 23-16-VII 10 Amp sockets can accept CEE 7/16 Europlugs. This type of plug is shown in the first picture.

CEI 23-16/VII (Italian 16 A/250 V)

The 16 amp looks like a larger version of the similarly shaped 10 amp. However, the pins are 5 mm thick, with a distance of 8 mm between them (the 10A version has a distance of 5.5 mm), and are 7 mm longer. The packaging of these plugs in Italy may claim that they are of the “Northern European” type. In the past they were also called per la forza motrice(for electromotive force) (for forks for motive force, see above) or sometimes industriale(industrial), although the latter was never the correct definition, since enterprises used predominantly three-phase current and special connectors.

Two-size or multi-size sockets

Socket bipasso(number 1) and Italian adapted socket schuko(number 2 in the photo) in a modern product.

Italian socket brand VIMAR universale, capable of accepting plug types A, C, E, F, E/F hybrids and both Italian L plug types.

Since it is a fact that the type of plugs found throughout Italy varies, in modern installations in Italy (and other countries where type L plugs are used) it is possible to find sockets that accept plugs of more than one standard. The simplest type has a central round hole and two holes at the bottom and top, made in the shape of a figure eight. This design allows the connection of both type L plugs (CEI 23-16/VII 10 A and 16 A) and Euro plugs type C CEE 7/16. The advantage of this type of socket is its small, compact front part. VIMAR claims that it patented sockets of this type already in 1975 with the release of their model Bpresa; however, soon other manufacturers began selling similar products, calling them in most cases by the generic term presa bipasso(two-standard socket), which is now very common.

The second fairly common type looks like an F receptacle, but with the addition of a central grounding hole. Sockets of this design can, in addition to Type C and 10 Amp L type plugs, accept CEE 7/7 (E/F type) plugs. Some of these receptacles may have figure-eight holes to accept 16-amp L-type plugs. The trade-off for versatility is twice the size of a normal L-type receptacle.

Other types may go even further in terms of compatibility. Manufacturer VIMAR produces a socket universale(universal) that accepts CEE 7/7 (E/F type), C type, 10 A and 16 A L type, and US/Japanese A type plugs.

Other countries

Outside Italy, type L CEI 23-16/VII (Italian 10A/250V) plugs can be found in Syria, Libya, Ethiopia, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, various countries in North Africa, and occasionally in old buildings in Spain.


Type M

BS 546 (South African type 15 A/250 V)

The term "Type M" is often used to describe the 15 amp version of the old British Type D used in South Africa and elsewhere.

In the USSR, two-pin sockets with non-spring solid ring contacts and a built-in fuse were initially used. These included forks with replaceable split round pins. Often on the back of the plug there were sockets for connecting another plug, which made it possible to connect plugs in a “stack” when there were not enough sockets. But later such plugs were abandoned, since the pins of such plugs often unscrewed and broke while remaining in the socket. Solid pin plugs required the pin to be held in place by spring pins in the socket, so older sockets cannot provide reliable contact between the plug and solid pins. However, low-power devices can be connected to such an outlet. Split plugs typically fit Type C pin diameters, but cannot fit into Type F sockets due to the shape of the housing.

Old spanish sockets

In old buildings in Spain you can find sockets with a special type of plug, which has two flat blades and a round pin between them. This species is vaguely similar to the American one.

The phase and neutral contacts have dimensions of 9 mm × 2 mm. The distance between them is 30 mm. All three contacts are 19 mm long. The diameter of the grounding pin is 4.8 mm.

Despite the fact that the plug resembles the American one, the two flat contacts are much further apart from each other than in the American version.

There are no devices sold with these plugs. An adapter is needed.

British electrical clock connector

British three-pin clock connector and disassembled plug with 2A fuse.

Fused plugs and sockets of various non-interchangeable types can be found in older public buildings in Great Britain, where they were used to supply AC power to electric wall clocks. They are smaller in size than regular sockets, are usually designed to fit into BESA (British Engineering Standards Association) junction boxes, often almost flat. Older plugs had a fuse on both wires, newer ones only on the phase wire and had a ground pin. Most were provided with a retaining screw or bracket to prevent accidental disconnection. Gradually battery quartz watch almost completely replaced network ones, and with them similar connectors.

American "Type I"

American appliance manufacturers, Hubbell, Eagle, and perhaps others made sockets and plugs that were exactly Type I, similar to those used in Australia today. Such sockets were installed in the United States in the 1930s for electrical appliances installed in the laundry room: washing machines and gas clothes dryers (to drive the motor). It was impossible to accept Type A plugs, which is probably why they quickly fell out of use, being replaced by Type B sockets.

Greek "type H"

Sockets, plugs and tees of the old Greek system

Before the widespread use of the schuko system, sockets similar to the H type with round pins were used in Greece, which were usually called τριπολικές (tripoliks).

Perpendicular rosette, USA

Perpendicular slotted double rosette

Perpendicular Soviet slot socket RP-2B for 10A 42V AC

Another outdated type of outlet from Bryant is 125V 15A and 250V 10A. A NEMA 5-20 125V 20A or 6-20 250V 20A plug with a missing ground pin will fit this outlet, but a NEMA 2-20 plug is too large for it.

The top slots, as seen in the picture, are connected to silver clamp screws on the top, and the bottom slots are connected to copper screws on the bottom.

In Australia the same or similar T-shaped sockets are used for DC, for example, in stand-alone power systems (SAPS) or on ships. In this application, the horizontal slot is placed at the top and is at positive potential. In the same way, sockets are used for temporary equipment in emergency situations. vehicles. In Victoria it is customary that upper part The letter T is indicated by a minus sign, and is therefore at negative potential. Outside Victoria, the vertical contact is designed to connect to the body/chassis. The top terminal of the T is positive on vehicles that have the chassis at negative potential. Also, the old transport is still running, with a positive potential on the chassis, that is, the polarity of the socket contacts can be any.

In the Soviet Union, and now in Russia, this socket was usually used to supply a reduced voltage for safety reasons, for example in schools, at gas stations, and in wet areas. The outlet is rated at 42V 10A AC. Such an unusual connection is necessary so that it is impossible to connect a low-voltage device to a 220V outlet.


US, combination double socket

The parallel-series receptacle accepts normal NEMA 1-15 parallel plugs as well as NEMA 2-15 series plugs. Both pairs of outlets are powered by the same source.

A more recent and fairly common version of this type is the T-slot rosette, in which serial and parallel slots were combined to produce T-shaped slots. This version also accepts normal NEMA 1-15 parallel plugs as well as NEMA 2-15 series plugs. By the way, a NEMA 5-20 (125V, 20A) or 6-20 (250V, 20A) plug without a grounding pin will also fit into this outlet. This type of socket has not been sold in stores since the 1960s.

Dorman & Smith (D&S), UK

D&S socket

The D&S standard was the earliest connector standard for ring wiring. The connectors were designed for a current of 13A. They were never popular in private homes, but were very often installed in prefabricated and municipal ones. They were also used by the BBC. D&S supplied sockets to local authorities at very low prices, with the intention of making money by selling plugs that typically cost 4 times the price of Type G plugs. It is not known exactly when D&S stopped producing plugs and sockets, but some local authorities continued to install them until the late 1950s years. D&S sockets were in use until the early 1980s, although the difficulty of obtaining plugs for them after 1970 forced residents to replace them with G-sockets. This generally contravened local council redevelopment orders. The D&S plug had a serious design flaw: the fuse, which also served as a phase pin, was connected to the plug body with a thread, and often unscrewed during operation, remaining in the socket.

Wylex, UK

Wylex plugs and sockets were manufactured by Wylex Electrical Supplies Ltd. as competitors to the G and D&S types. There were varieties of plugs designed for 5 and 13 amperes, with different widths of phase and neutral contacts and fuse ratings. The plug had a round ground prong in the center and two flat prongs on each side for live and neutral, slightly above the middle of the center prong. Wall sockets were rated at 13A and accepted 5A and 13A plugs. Many 13A plugs had a socket on the back that would only accept a 5A plug. Wylex sockets were installed in municipal and public housing, less often in the private sector. They were particularly popular in the Manchester area, although they were installed throughout England, mainly in schools, university housing and government laboratories. Wylex plugs and sockets continued to be produced after the final adoption of the G standard, and were widely used in banks and computer rooms throughout the 1960s and 1970s for uninterruptible power supplies or "clean" filtered networks. It is not known exactly when Wylex stopped producing plugs and sockets; however, plugs could be found on sale in the Manchester area until the mid-1980s.

Chuck adapters

Two Italian lamp sockets, with outlet. On the left is a 1930 example (porcelain and copper); right - ok. 1970 (black plastic).

The incandescent lamp socket plug fits into a bayonet or Edison screw socket. It allows you to connect electrical appliances to light bulb sockets. These plugs were widely used from the 1920s to the 1960s, when many homes had few or no wall outlets.

Often, lighting circuits are equipped with a 5A fuse or circuit breaker, which does not prevent the socket from overheating. Fuses were very rarely installed in the adapters themselves. In the UK and some other countries the use of such adapters is prohibited for fire safety reasons.

In Italy plugs for Edison screw lamp sockets were used very widely while the lighting network was separated from the mains general purpose, and some places in houses (for example basements) were usually not equipped with sockets.

Type A adapters can still be easily found in the Americas.

Rare types

NEMA 2-15 and 2-20

Ungrounded plugs with two flat parallel blades are a variant of the 1-15 plug, but are designed to supply 240 volts instead of 120. The 2-15 has coplanar power contacts (rotated 90° relative to the contacts in regular American plugs), and the voltage rating is current is 240V 15A, while 2-20 has two power contacts rotated 90° relative to each other (one vertical, the other horizontal) and a rating of 240V 20A. NEMA 2 plugs and sockets are very rare because they have been banned for decades in the US and Canada. They are potentially dangerous because they are not grounded, and in some cases the plugs may be inserted into outlets of a different voltage. Before the NEMA standard for 120V at 20A, a plug almost identical to the 2-20 type was used. The 2-20 plug fits into 5-20 and 6-20 sockets designed for a different voltage.

Walsall Gauge, UK

Unlike standard English BS 1363 plugs, the earth pin is horizontal and the live and neutral pins are vertical. This type of plug was used by the BBC, and is still sometimes used on the London Underground on low voltage networks.

Italian connector Bticino Magic security

Magic security connectors were developed by Bticino in the 1960s as an alternative to Europlugs or L-type connectors. Sockets of this type are almost rectangular, the plugs were inserted into a shaped slot, closed with a safety lid with the inscription “Magic”, which could only open when the corresponding plug was inserted into it. At least four models were produced: three single-phase general purpose connectors, rated respectively 10A, 16A and 20A, and a three-phase industrial connector rated 10A. Each connector had its own slot shape so that plugs could not be plugged into sockets that did not correspond to them. The contacts are located on both sides of the plug. The plug only connects to electricity when it is fully inserted into the outlet.

The obvious disadvantage of the system is that it is not compatible with Euroforks. Because household appliances were never sold with such a plug, after installing such sockets it was necessary to replace the plugs with the corresponding Magic security ones. However, the system Magic security was initially quite popular among consumers who valued security; The connectors used at that time were not sufficiently safe. When safety covers for type L sockets (VIMAR Sicury) were invented, Magic sockets almost went out of use.

In Italy, the Magic system has not been officially abandoned, and it is still available in the Bticino product catalog, although it is not popular.

In Chile, 10 Amp Magic connectors are commonly used in computer and laboratory environments, as well as in telecommunications plants, as a standard of reliability and safety, due to their polarization, difficulty of accidental disconnection, etc.

Brazil, using a mixture of Europlug and NEMA, later adopted it as the national standard NBR 14136 in 2001. A gradual transition is planned, starting in 2007 and ending in 2010 (retail stores and resellers can sell devices without time limits, but importers cannot import non-compliant devices, and manufacturers cannot sell them domestically).


Multi-standard sockets

Standard grounded Thai socket that accepts European two-pin plugs and US grounded and ungrounded plugs

Sockets supporting various types plugs can be found in various countries in which market size or local market conditions make the development of a specific plug standard impractical. These sockets accept plugs made to various European, Asian and North American standards. Because many plug standards are tied to their respective voltages, multistandard receptacles do not provide protection against damage to devices rated for other voltages. This forces users to know the voltage requirements for their devices as well as the prevailing voltage in the host country. With such sockets, you can safely use devices that automatically adjust to the desired voltage and frequency and do not require grounding.

These outlets may have one or more grounding holes for three-prong plugs. In correctly routed circuits, the ground pin is actually grounded; however, it is possible to determine whether this is so only with the help of special instruments. Even correctly wired sockets cannot guarantee a ground connection to all types of plugs, since it is difficult to create a socket of this design.

When connecting a three-phase electric stove, the load on each phase separately is reduced due to the fact that each part of the stove is connected to a separate phase.

With a single-phase connection, the load on a single phase increases. The maximum power consumption of a typical modern electric stove is 8-10 kW, which at a voltage of 220V corresponds to a current of 36-45A. Conventional household wall sockets are designed, as a rule, for a current of no more than 16A, so the stove must be connected to the electrical network either in a permanent way or with a grounded connector designed for the appropriate current.

Different countries have different practices for connecting electric stoves.

For example, Swiss regulations dictate that equipment consuming current in excess of 16A must either be connected to the network in a permanent way, with suitable branch protection, or connected using an industrial connector suitable for the rated current.

The electrical safety regulations of some other countries do not say anything about the method of connecting electric stoves, and everyone is free to choose the connection method independently. Often the consumer himself buys the first non-standard pair of plug and socket for a specific electric stove, and it often happens that they are designed for a current of 25-32A, since the user relies on the fact that the stove usually never turns on at full power. The non-standard nature of the plug and socket is explained by the lack of national standards for connecting electric stoves.


See also

Links

  • IEC Zone: Plugs and sockets Wikipedia
  • An IEC connector is the general name for a set of thirteen female connectors mounted on the power cord (hereinafter called connector) and thirteen male connectors mounted on the panel of the device (called input), defined by the specification ... ... Wikipedia

    This term has other meanings, see Rosette. This article lacks an introduction. Please add an introductory section that briefly describes the topic of the article. Contained ... Wikipedia

    This article is about the design, technical features and the history of the development of plug connectors. About standards for plug connectors adopted in different countries, see List of plug connector standards ... Wikipedia

    This term has other meanings, see Voltage... Wikipedia

    - (CEE 7/17), mechanically polarized version The contour plug (Type designation: CEE 7/17) has been developed to, like the Europlug, be used throughout Europe. It is used when the device does not require protective grounding, but ... Wikipedia

European buyers who have had to purchase electronic devices or home appliances in the United States know that American equipment has a different power cord configuration than what we are used to. There is also a difference in the network voltage range. Thus, the norm for the United States is a voltage of 110 volts, while in the networks of European countries it is 220 volts.

Therefore, people who want to buy a laptop, smartphone, TV or depilator in the USA are afraid that they will not be able to use these devices.

In fact, they can, but for this they will need to take certain steps. Next, we will try to figure out how to determine the voltage level at which the device operates, and how to adapt a North American device to the networks of the European continent.

Currently, almost all manufacturers equip their products with network adapters universal type, power supplies and devices for charging gadgets, which allows the equipment to work in any country in the world.

Finding out the voltage range for a particular product is not difficult. To do this, just look:

  • instructions for the device (section dedicated to technical parameters);
  • specification on the sticker located on the back of the product;
  • description of the device model on the manufacturer's website.

Standard network adapters of this type are included with all modern laptops. In the data indicated on the sticker we can see that this device is universal and can operate from 100 to 240 volts (highlighted in red).

Before purchasing a product, the buyer can first find out what the operating range of the corresponding device is. In addition, you can ask the seller of the product about the shape of the plug and the permissible voltage level. But it should be remembered that almost any device can be adapted to work with a suitable voltage level.

On the sticker of the electric razor charger we see that the device also operates at a voltage of 100-240 volts (highlighted in red)

Equipment that operates at voltages between 100 and 240 volts

After receiving the goods, you must first make sure that this power supply is truly universal, because otherwise there is a high risk of damage to the electrical device.

Standard mobile phone charger. Information that indicates its versatility is highlighted in red.

Then you need to solve the problem with the cord plug American type, which is different from European standard. If, when ordering a product, the store does not offer a European-style plug as an option, then there are two ways out of this situation.

Purchasing an adapter

Buying an adapter for an American-type cord plug to a European-type network is the simplest, cheapest and most popular way to solve the problem. But in this case it is necessary to take into account one important nuance- presence or absence of a grounding contact on the plug.

Mains plug equipped with a grounding pin

If the plug of the purchased device is equipped with a grounding contact, then you should select a universal type adapter. If there is no grounding contact, then a standard adapter is most suitable.

A plug that does not have a grounding pin

Purchasing such an adapter is the optimal solution. Such devices cost about two to three dollars and are sold in many electrical stores. However, the difficulty is that they are not always available for sale.

Types of network adapters designed for plugs without grounding function

But this problem is not insurmountable, since such devices can be purchased on radio markets or via the Internet. For example, a large assortment of such products is presented on the American online eBay auction.

Purchasing the correct power cord

An alternative way to solve the problem is to purchase a new power cord equipped with a plug of the appropriate configuration. You can also use a cord from some other device, for example, from a camera or video camera.

The cord can be purchased for $3-5 at any electronics or home improvement store. But it should be noted that the connector of the purchased cord that is connected to the equipment must fully correspond to the connector of the American cord.

Let's consider a fairly common situation: a laptop was purchased in the United States with a plug configuration typical for that country. The gadget's network adapter states that it is universal and can operate at a network voltage of 100-240 volts. You can solve the problem of replacing the cord in a very simple way:

Initially, the laptop included a power cord with a standard US connector.

The simplest way out is to replace it with a power cord suitable for European networks. There is no need to do anything further because network adapter The laptop can work with any network.

Cases when purchasing a cord is impractical

For some types of equipment, purchasing cords is not justified, and in such cases, preference should be given to purchasing adapters. Devices used primarily with adapters include:

  • mobile phones and smartphones, since purchasing a new device for recharging is unprofitable;
  • large household appliances in which the cord is connected to the device itself, and can only be replaced by specialists from specialized repair centers;
  • devices equipped with complex connectors and connected directly to electrical equipment; in such situations, you can purchase a suitable cord only at the manufacturer’s service center.

Electrical equipment operating at voltages between 100 and 110 volts

Nowadays, it is common to find household appliances that operate strictly at 110 volts. This is, first of all, large equipment that users rarely order through online stores from other parts of the world.

But if the buyer nevertheless received such a product, then he can solve the problem that has arisen quite easily. The best solution in this case is to purchase a step-down transformer.

This device reduces the voltage of the 220V electrical network to 110V suitable for the device. It is equipped with all the necessary connectors, so there is no need to purchase any additional adapters. The process of connecting the device to the electrical network via a transformer is carried out by connecting the plugs; no settings are needed.

Selecting the correct transformer power

When choosing a transformer, you need to pay attention to the power level of the electrical appliance with which it will be used, since large equipment, in particular refrigerators, televisions, electric heaters, etc., require a higher power transformer. Therefore, you first need to find out what the power of the electrical appliance is (in Watts-W or Watt), and then buy the most suitable transformer device.

The dimensions of step-down transformers vary. Thus, for equipment with low power levels (up to two hundred watts), transformers are barely larger in size than devices for charging smartphones. A device for equipment with a power of up to three thousand watts can be comparable in its parameters to a two-liter bottle.

An ordinary step-down transformer equipped with an American plug connector

Such devices can be ordered from electronic stores. The cost of transformers with a power of up to two hundred watts is approximately ten dollars. The higher the power of the connected equipment, the more expensive the transformer is. So, the cost of a device for three thousand watts will reach 50-70 dollars.

Step-down transformer for high-power electrical devices

Many buyers order such products via the Internet, in particular, on the American auction eBay, where there is always large selection step-down transformers.

There are more than a hundred ways to connect electrical appliances to the network in the world. Eat huge amount plugs and sockets. It is also necessary to take into account that each country has a specific voltage, frequency and current strength. This can turn into a serious problem for tourists. But this question is relevant today not only for those who love to travel. Some people, when renovating an apartment or house, deliberately install sockets of the standard of other countries. One of these is the American outlet. It has its own characteristics, disadvantages and advantages. Today there are only 13 socket and plug standards that are used in different countries of the world. Let's look at some of them.

Two frequency and voltage standards

It would seem, why do we need so many standards and types? electrical elements? But it should be taken into account that there are different standards network voltage. Many people do not know that the household electrical network in North America uses not traditional 220 V, as in Russia and the CIS, but 120 V. But this was not always the case. Until the 60s throughout the territory Soviet Union household voltage was 127 volts. Many will ask why this is so. As you know, the amount of electrical energy consumed is constantly growing. Previously, apart from light bulbs in apartments and houses, there were simply no other consumers.

Everything that each of us plugs in every day - computers, televisions, microwaves, boilers - did not exist then and appeared much later. When the power increases, the voltage must be increased. Higher current entails overheating of the wires, and with them certain losses due to this heating. This is serious. In order to avoid this unnecessary loss of precious energy, it was necessary to increase the cross-section of the wire. But it is very difficult, time-consuming and expensive. Therefore, it was decided to increase the voltage in the networks.

The times of Edison and Tesla

Edison was a proponent of direct current. He believed that this particular current was convenient for work. Tesla believed in the advantages of variable frequency. Eventually the two scientists began to practically fight each other. By the way, this war ended only in 2007, when the United States switched to alternating current in household networks. But let's return to Edison. He created the production of incandescent light bulbs with carbon-based filaments. The voltage for optimal operation of these lamps was 100 V. He added another 10 V for losses in the conductors and at his power plants accepted 110 V as the operating voltage. That is why the American socket for a long time was designed for 110 V. Further in the States, and then in other countries that worked closely with the USA, they accepted it as standard voltage 120 V. The current frequency was 60 Hz. But electrical networks were created in such a way that two phases and a “neutral” were connected to houses. This made it possible to obtain 120 V when using phase voltages or 240 in the case of

Why two phases?

It's all about the generators that created electricity for all of America.

Until the end of the 20th century, they were two-phase. Weak consumers were connected to them, and more powerful ones were transferred to linear voltages.

60 Hz

This is entirely due to Tesla. This happened back in 1888. He worked closely with J. Westinghouse, including on the development of generators. They argued a lot and for a long time about the optimal frequency - the opponent insisted on choosing one of the frequencies in the range from 25 to 133 Hz, but Tesla stood firm on his idea and the figure of 60 Hz fit into the system as much as possible.

Advantages

Among the advantages of this frequency are lower costs in the manufacturing process of the electromagnetic system for transformers and generators. Therefore, equipment for this frequency has significantly smaller sizes and weight. By the way, the lamps practically do not flicker. An American outlet in the States is much better suited for powering computers and other equipment that requires good power.

Sockets and standards

There are two main standards in frequency and voltage in the world.

One of them is American. This network voltage is 110-127 V at a frequency of 60 Hz. And standard A and B are used as plugs and sockets. The second type is European. Here the voltage is 220-240 V, frequency is 50 Hz. The European socket is predominantly S-M.

Type A

These species are widespread only in Northern and Central America. They can also be found in Japan. However, there are some differences between them. The Japanese have two pins parallel to each other and flat with the same dimensions. The American outlet is a little different. And the fork for it, accordingly, too. Here one pin is wider than the second. This is done to ensure that the correct polarity is always maintained when connecting electrical appliances. After all, previously the current in American networks was constant. These sockets were also called Class II. Tourists say that plugs from Japanese technology work without problems with American and Canadian sockets. But connecting these elements in reverse (if the plug is American) will not work. A suitable adapter for the socket is required. But usually people just file down the wide pin.

Type B

These types of devices are only used in Canada, the USA and Japan. And if type “A” devices were intended for low-power equipment, then such sockets are used mainly for powerful household appliances with consumption currents of up to 15 amperes.

In some catalogs, such an American plug or socket may be designated as Class I or NEMA 5-15 (this is already an international designation). Now they have almost completely replaced type “A”. In the USA, only "B" is used. But in old buildings you can still find the old American outlet. It does not have a contact responsible for connecting the ground. In addition, the US industry has long been producing appliances with modern plugs. But this does not prevent the use of new electrical appliances in old houses. In this case, resourceful Americans simply cut off or destroy the grounding contact so that it does not interfere and can be connected to an old-style outlet.

About appearance and differences

Anyone who purchased an iPhone from the USA knows very well what an American outlet looks like. It has its own characteristics. The socket consists of two flat holes or slits. New type devices have an additional grounding contact at the bottom.

Also, to avoid errors, one pin of the plug is made wider than the other. The Americans decided not to change this approach, and left everything the same in the new outlets. The contacts on the plug are not pins, like european socket. These are more like plates. There may be holes at their ends.

How to operate American equipment in the CIS countries

It happens that people bring equipment from the States and want to use it in Europe or Russia. And they encounter a problem - the socket does not fit the plug. So what should we do? You can replace the cord with a standard European one, but this is not an option for everyone. For those who are not technically savvy and have never held a soldering iron in their hands, it is recommended to purchase an adapter for a socket. There are quite a lot of them - they are all different in quality and price. If you are planning a trip to the USA, then you should stock up on adapters in advance. There they can cost five or more dollars. If you order from an online store, you can save up to half the cost. It should also be taken into account that even in US hotels, all sockets meet the American standard - and it doesn’t matter that most of the people who stay are foreign tourists.

In this case, an adapter from an American outlet to a European one could help him. The same applies to equipment purchased in the USA. If you don’t want to solder, you can purchase an inexpensive Chinese-made adapter and take full advantage of electrical appliances, charge your phone or tablet on a non-standard outlet. There are no other options here.

Resume

They say that you can’t understand Russia with your mind, but in the USA everything is not so simple either. You can't just show up and use American style sockets with European or any other plugs. Therefore, you should take adapters on the road, and you need to order them in advance. This saves a lot of time and money.