The main stages of RAW conversion in Photoshop.
If your camera supports the format RAW photo and you want to know why it is better than standard jpeg, then this article is written for you.
The main feature of the RAW format is that it records much more information about the image than jpeg. A full information allows you to refine the photo, change the exposure, darken highlights and brighten dark areas. And turn even the most ordinary photo into a masterpiece.
To process the RAW format, two programs are mainly used: Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Lightroom. In newer versions of Photoshop built-in appeared Camera app Raw for RAW format processing. the most powerful program, specially created for sorting and processing entire albums of photos in RAW format.
In general, the editing window is almost the same. At the end of the article in video lesson you can see how to process photos in RAW format with using Adobe Photoshop.
Drag our RAW image into the window Adobe programs Photoshop. The Camera Raw add-on launches.
At the top of the window there are buttons such as: scaling, dragging, cropping. Correction brush allows you to make corrections on separate areas photos.
The main adjustments window is displayed on the right. Here you can adjust the exposure, temperature, color, and also lighten or darken various tones of the photo. It is this panel that brings the photo to life. Correctly selected settings allow you to “see” details that are lost when regular photography filmed in JPEG format.
At the top, there is a histogram of the image, and below it additional information about the photo.
The next window is called "Tone Curve".
The next tab "Detailing" allows you to get rid of digital noise in the photo.
The next tab allows you to set the color tone of the shadows and highlights of the photo.
The post-crop vignetting effect lets you darken or lighten the edges of a photo to bring more attention to the center.
Let's click on the Y button under the photo and see what it was like and what it became. If you are satisfied with the result, click save or open it in Photoshop for further refinement.
The finished result looks like this:
In the next video lesson you will see how to process RAW photos in Adobe Photoshop:
(Visited 7,864 times, 2 visits today)
Processing RAW photos in Lightroom 6
More recently, digital SLR cameras used by professionals and amateurs only supported one image format called JPEG. Now you can take a photo in RAW format. The main difference between RAW and JPEG files is that you will have more options when editing the image in various photo editors such as Photoshop, Lightroom, etc. On the other hand, an image shot in JPEG format does not allow for many post-editing options.
Currently, almost all manufacturers digital cameras allow users to shoot in RAW format, which has various extensions. The problem is that Photoshop CS6 or Photoshop CC may not be able to open a RAW file produced using digital SLR camera. This guide will help you open RAW file in Adobe Photoshop CS6 or CC or other graphics program, which can be downloaded from https://theprogs.ru/.
How to open a RAW image in Adobe Photoshop CS6 or CC
As we said earlier, different manufacturers use different formats RAW images in their cells. For example, Nikon uses the .NEF format extension, while Canon files have the extension .CRW, .CR2, etc. Unlike other formats such as .PNG or .JPEG, you cannot open a RAW image file with using Photoshop or Lightroom because it uses a different codec and compression ratio. So you have two ways to open a RAW file in Adobe Photoshop.
- Via Adobe Camera RAW
- Use Image Converter
Open a RAW file using Adobe Camera Raw
This is the most common way to open RAW files in Photoshop. However, the downside is that you may not be able to use the Camera Raw tool in Photoshop CC since it is only for CS6.
Adobe Camera Raw supports huge amount cameras and file formats. It supports DNG, CRW, CR2, ERF, RAF, GPR, 3fr, FFF, DCR, KDC, MRW, MOS, NEF and other file formats. All supported camera models are described at https://helpx.adobe.com/camera-raw/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html.
Camera Raw is a plugin for Photoshop CS6 that allows users to open any RAW file in Photoshop CS6. By default, Adobe Photoshop CS6 comes with this module. If you have this plugin, you will be able to open RAW files.
If you get an error - Photoshop can't open this file, then either you don't have this plugin or you need to update the plugin.
Go to http://supportdownloads.adobe.com/detail.jsp?ftpID=5373 and download Adobe Camera Raw. Unzip the zipped folder and install the file named AdobePatchInstaller.exe. Now you can open the RAW file in Adobe Photoshop CS6.
However, the problem is that many users fail to open a RAW file using this method.
Image Converter program to convert RAW file to JPEG
When using this method, you will not get all the benefits of the RAW file, it may be compressed and therefore the quality will be degraded. But, you can open the RAW file in Photoshop.
To use this method, you need to determine the RAW file format that your camera produces. There are many online tools, based on your RAW format. You can use these image converters to RAW conversion files into JPEG format, and then you can open them in any graphics editor.
Make sure you convert the file to JPEG, as PNG may not work for portrait or landscape image orientations. Also, for macro photography, JPEG will work better than PNG.
If you have a Nikon camera, you can also use Capture NX-D, which is a tool for processing RAW images in Windows. You can work with RAW files without losing quality or color depth.
© 2013 site
At the time of writing this article I am using Adobe plugin Camera Raw version 7, which comes with Adobe Photoshop CS6. This is the first Adobe version Camera Raw (ACR), where fully automatic correction of chromatic aberrations is implemented in a human way, which is very important to me. I find earlier versions of ACR unacceptable, and until the release of Adobe Camera Raw 7, I used DxO Optics Pro as my main RAW converter. DxO is not too different user-friendly interface, but provides excellent quality for converting RAW files, which Adobe was able to approach only in 2012. Since the ACR interface is more convenient for me, I, having appreciated the advantages of the seventh version, changed the converter.
If you are using any other RAW converter, try to follow the same steps as described in this article. General principle The operation of all converters is the same, and they differ, by and large, in details. Among the popular converters, in addition to Adobe Camera Raw, I can recommend DxO Optics Pro and Phase One Capture One PRO. Converters from photographic equipment manufacturers - Canon Digital Photo Professional and Nikon Capture NX do an excellent job of converting images taken using Canon and Nikon cameras, respectively, but have an extremely inconvenient interface. The widely used Adobe Lightroom runs on the Adobe Camera Raw engine, and therefore does not differ from the latter in conversion quality.
When choosing a RAW converter, make sure that the images converted with it are no worse in quality than the JPEG obtained using the camera. Intracameral conversion to recent years provides (with proper configuration) such good results that often shooting in JPEG is preferable to inept processing of a RAW file in a converter that is not the latest (see “RAW or JPEG?”).
Let's look at the basics of processing RAW files using the example of a photograph of a picturesque valley in the Skole Beskids. Let's open the file in Adobe Photoshop, and the Adobe Camera Raw window will open in front of us. The raw landscape, as always happens with RAW files, looks quite washed out, but we'll fix that soon.
At the top left is a panel of the most frequently used tools from the point of view of program developers. I usually have magnifying glass selected ( Zoom Tool– Z key) or hand ( Hand Tool– H key or holding down the space bar). In the upper right corner you can see a color histogram, and below it there are tabs for groups of tools for image editing.
If you open several RAW files at once in ACR, you will see them on the left as a row of icons. Camera Raw supports batch processing files, i.e. By selecting multiple images, you can change different settings simultaneously for the entire batch. Can also be applied to all open files uniform parameters based on an already edited sample using the Synchronize function.
Before you start working with Adobe Camera Raw for the first time, you should configure some plugin settings so that you won't be distracted by them in the future.
Setting up Adobe Camera Raw
First of all, open the ACR settings dialog. It can be found in top panel tools (third button from the right) or call by pressing Ctrl/Cmd+K.
In the section General, in the Save image settings in item, select where the processing parameters for each edited image should be saved - in separate .xmp files (Sidecar “.xmp” files) or in a special database (Camera Raw database). I prefer the first option, i.e. after saving the results of the work, the program creates next to each RAW file additional file settings with the extension .xmp, in which all changes made are recorded. In the case of a database, all information is stored centrally, which is inconvenient for me. In both cases, the RAW file itself does not undergo any changes, and therefore you can always go back in the editing process or even reset all settings and start editing again. Also, settings are reset when deleting an .xmp file or ACR database.
In the section Default Image Settings Uncheck all the boxes to prevent the program from arbitrarily adjusting images.
In the section Camera Raw Cache indicate the maximum volume acceptable for you temporary files(at least 1 Gb) and the folder where they should be stored (preferably not on the system drive).
Chapter DNG File Handling you can not touch it, but in the section JPEG and TIFF Handling Disable support for JPEG and TIFF formats (Disable JPEG support and Disable TIFF support), since these formats are better processed directly through Photoshop.
Save the settings by clicking "OK".
At the very bottom of the Adobe Camera Raw window, in the form of a blue link with an underline, there is a description of the workspace that will be assigned to the image after you finish working in ACR and open it in Photoshop. Click on the "link". In the window that opens, check the following points:
Try to avoid clipping in highlights by constantly monitoring your histogram. By pressing the O key you can turn on the highlight clipping warning. Clipping shadows is much more common, but also requires caution.
Contrast– contrast. Controls the overall contrast of an image using an S-curve, changing the difference in brightness between the darkest and lightest areas. I rarely use Contrast values above +25, and now I won't touch it at all.
The following two tools work in tandem to selectively control the brightness of highlights and shadows:
Highlights- Sveta. Helps bring out details in excess bright lights. I'll give it -50.
Shadows– shadows. Brightens shadows like a fill flash. +25 will be enough.
The next pair of tools operate even more narrowly, affecting only the extreme points of the histogram, which is sometimes necessary to combat clipping, or, conversely, lack of contrast:
Whites– white dot. I'll move the edge of the histogram to the right by +30, although I use negative values much more often.
Blacks– black dot. I’ll leave it unchanged – the black color is still in its place.
Experiment with Highlights/Shadows and Whites/Blacks to see how they differ from each other.
Clarity– clarity or local contrast. Clarity is the most useful tool, since in many scenes you have to deal with the disadvantage of local contrast, while the overall contrast is ok, or even excessive. But be careful: in the pursuit of detail, it’s easy to go too far and end up with unnatural halos around objects. I usually don't go above Clarity +50, but today I'll make an exception and set it to +75.
Vibrance And Saturation control color saturation. The difference between them is selectivity. If Saturation increases the saturation of all colors indiscriminately, then Vibrance works more delicately, increasing the intensity of only the least rich colors. I'll set the Vibrance to +50 and Saturation to +15, which is quite a lot. More often it is necessary to use smaller values in order to then selectively increase the saturation of only individual color channels.
Often, after I've adjusted all of the Basic tab tools, I'll return to the white balance sliders to adjust them to account for any changes in brightness, contrast, or color saturation that may have affected the color balance.
Here's what we got for at this stage. You can compare the processing results with the original image by hovering your cursor over the image.
I am unhappy with the sky - it is too light, has an unnatural gradient of brightness from left to right, and its color is not intense enough. In addition, I would like the mountains closest to us (to the left and to the right) to look a little more contrasting and more prominent. I'll deal with the mountains later in Photoshop, and a gradient filter will help me improve the sky ( Graduated Filter– G key). It is an imitation of a real gradient filter, but has a wide variety of customizable parameters.
First of all, to shade the left top corner, I will apply a diagonally oriented gradient filter to it with the parameters: Temperature -10; Exposure -0.50. Then, across the entire sky, from the top edge of the photo to the horizon, I will draw another gradient with the following parameters: Temperature -20; Exposure -0.50; Contrast -25; Highlights -25; Clarity -50; Saturation +15.
Note that the gradient filter allows you to selectively change the color balance in certain areas of the image, which can be useful if, for example, you want to warm up a landscape while keeping the sky cool and blue.
Since I'm already working on gradients, I'll probably add one more at the very bottom of the photo with the goal of making the water in the river bluer and the grass on the near bank greener. The only parameter: Temperature -20.
Compare the image with and without gradient filters.
To influence areas of the image that have complex boundaries, it is advisable to use not a gradient filter, but its analogue in the form of an adjustment brush ( Adjustment Brush– key K).
Tone Curve Tab
Here you can finely adjust the brightness and contrast of the image using curves. I rarely use curves in Camera Raw because... I usually have enough options in the Basic tab.
Detail tab
This tab is responsible for sharpening ( Sharpening) and noise reduction ( Noise Reduction). I prefer to increase sharpness in Photoshop, and therefore in ACR I turn off sharpening by setting Amount to 0. With suppression moderate ACR copes quite well with noise, especially chromatic noise. Typically I use following parameters: Luminance 25; Luminance Detail 100; Luminance Contrast 100; Color 50; Color Detail 100. The first three parameters are responsible for achromatic (brightness) noise, the rest are for chromatic (color) noise. When suppressing luminance noise, special care must be taken to avoid creating a washed-out picture. When working in the Detail tab, always view the image at 100% zoom, otherwise you won't be able to see what's going on with the fine details.
HSL/Grayscale tab
An indispensable color correction tool. The HSL/Grayscale tab is designed for working with individual colors and includes three subtabs:
Hue- shade or tone. Here I'll move the Oranges to the left by -10 to make the clay on the shore redder, and the Aquas to the right by +10 to make the lower sky area look fresher.
In general, I find that Adobe Camera Raw tends to make the image a little more yellow-green than I would like, and therefore I have to adjust individual shades one way or another. If you're personally happy with ACR's color rendering, you can leave the Hue subtab alone.
Saturation– saturation. To improve the appearance of the clay I will set the Oranges slider to +25. Often I increase the saturation blue(Blues), but in this case I solved the issue with the color of the sky and water mainly using gradient filters.
Luminance– lightness or brightness. I'll make the sky a little darker by moving the Blues slider to -15.
The Split Toning tab is designed for toning black and white photos and we will skip it now.
Lens Corrections Tab
Here you can correct lens aberrations, as well as perspective distortions. There are two sub-tabs – for automatic and manual correction:
Profile– automatic correction of lens aberrations based on a special profile. Profiles for most popular lenses come standard with Adobe Camera Raw. To enable automatic correction For lens distortion and vignetting, check the box next to Enable Lens Profile Corrections. I recommend doing this only in cases where distortion or vignetting is visible to the naked eye, since eliminating distortion leads to a slight deterioration in sharpness, and vignetting is not even always a disadvantage. In the case of our example, everything suits me anyway, and therefore I will only check the box next to Remove Chromatic Aberrations. Elimination of chromatic aberrations works perfectly in ACR 7 (which cannot be said about more earlier versions), and I always use it, especially since it helps improve sharpness at the edges of the frame.
Manual– manual correction. Here you can correct a littered horizon and distortions introduced by perspective. In my photo, both the horizon and perspective are fine, so I'll leave everything unchanged. If you work in manual correction mode, I advise you to turn on the grid by pressing the V key to better see both the distortions themselves and your edits.
At this stage, I usually use the Crop Tool (C key) if the standard 3:2 aspect ratio does not suit me or if the edge of the photo has captured some foreign objects. No cropping is required now.
Effects Tab
There are only two effects: grain ( Grain) and vignetting ( Post Crop Vignetting). I will leave grain for lovers of pseudo-vintage photographs, but moderate vignetting can decorate many photographs. I'll shade the edges of the image slightly by setting the Amount to -15.
So, we went through all the functional tabs. You are already familiar with the Camera Calibration tab, but there are still two additional tabs:
Presets Tab
You can save all the changes you make to an image as presets, which can later be applied to any other images.
Snapshots tab
Snapshot means snapshot. This is the same as preset, but only within one RAW file. In other words, you can create several processing options for the same photo (for example, color and black and white versions), and then work with each option individually.
This completes the process of editing our landscape in Adobe Camera Raw. I will do the final finishing using Adobe Photoshop.
By clicking “Open”, you will open the image for further processing in Photoshop, and by clicking “Done”, simply save the results of your work in an .xmp file.
I suggest you compare the photo processed in Adobe Camera Raw with the original version.
Thank you for your attention!
Vasily A.
Post scriptum
If you found the article useful and informative, you can kindly support the project by making a contribution to its development. If you didn’t like the article, but you have thoughts on how to make it better, your criticism will be accepted with no less gratitude.
Don't forget that this article is subject to copyright. Reprinting and quoting are permissible provided there is a valid link to the source, and the text used must not be distorted or modified in any way.
Many people, having taken a landscape photo of a beautiful place, wonder why it doesn’t look very good in the photo. How to get the kind of result that you see from professionals on different sites on the social network VK, Instagram, etc.? The answer is obvious, any photograph of any professional undergoes one or another processing. If you see beautiful photo and the author says that he did not process it, don’t believe it! In this Photoshop tutorial, we'll look at a landscape photography technique that many professionals use.
But first, a few words about the editor. Think of Photoshop as your personal darkroom. During the era of film photography, some photographers had black and white darkrooms at home. This way they could control the entire process of creating the image. A very select few had color darkrooms, as this was much more complex and expensive. Nowadays, we have at our disposal a complete color darkroom installed on a computer (or even an iPad) called Photoshop or Lightroom (it's not called that by mistake, it's the opposite of darkroom). If you have Photoshop or Lightroom, then you have a very powerful tool with which you can edit your images.
After
Let's make your photos expressive!
What does it mean to make photographs expressive? This can mean a number of characteristics, but basically it is more color, contrast and drama. As always, this means that you need to have good picture for work. This is not about improving an average quality image. Make sure you choose a good reference image to work with and then proceed with the next steps.
Shoot only inRAW
Shooting in RAW format is good start. I know you don't want to shoot in RAW because the file size is very large or you don't see the benefits, but RAW really is different. First, you are working with a complete, uncompressed data file. A JPEG image already has camera settings that compress it to the right size. Some information is completely lost, meaning you are working with less information about the image, which in turn means less flexibility in the editing process. Of course, RAW is only useful if you're going to spend time processing your images in Photoshop or Lightroom.
Let's say you're going to edit and you took photos in RAW format. Open the file in Photoshop and you'll see the Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) editor. This is truly a very powerful tool. Latest updates practically made the ACR editor in Photoshop separate tool for post-processing, it's so powerful. When it opens you will see a set of tools with right side panels, basically these are sliders such as: White Balance, Hue, Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, Burns, Clarity, Vibrance and Saturation.
EditorCamera RawVPhotoshop CC
The camera raw editor contains some very powerful tools. The following steps will be done primarily in the RAW editor, then the image will be opened in Photoshop and edited further. Many of these adjustments are similar to those you can make in the Adjustments module in Lightroom, so you can make the same adjustments there as well.
EditorCamera RawVAdobe Photoshop CC
Basic editor slidersRAWclose up
Settings VRAWeditor
Temperature– First of all, pay attention to the color in the scene. You can adjust the temperature to make the scene warmer (move the slider towards yellow) or cooler (move the slider towards blue). This way you can adjust the color tone or add some drama to the image. In this scene I decided to go towards warm colors.
Exposition– look at the exposure, the image may be very dark or too light. Use the sliders to adjust this.
Contrast– adjust the contrast so that the dark areas of the image are dark enough without losing detail.
Sveta– in this image the red indicator in the highlights shows me where there is very little detail. To compensate for this, move the slider to the left. If your highlights are underexposed, move the slider to the right, but be careful not to overexpose them.
Shadows– The shadow slider can help you bring back detail in the shadows or darken them. Be careful with this and don't overdo it, as the shadows may look noisy (or the image will look like HDR).
White– This slider adjusts each white or partially white pixel in the image.
Blackout– This slider adjusts each black pixel.
Definition– The clarity slider controls contrast in midtones. This can add some structure to the image, but don't overdo it.
colorfulness– this slider affects any unsaturated pixel. This good start, to add some expressiveness to the scene.
Saturation– this slider adjusts all pixels, making them saturated or desaturated.
Basic settings inCamera RAW
Panel SettingsHSL
This tab contains three tools: Hue, Saturation, and Lightness (HSL). These settings will make changes to the image based on color channels. For example, if you click on the saturation tab, you can make the reds more or less saturated, the same goes for the oranges and all the other color channels. You can also do specific color brighter using the brightness tab. In this image I wanted to deepen the reds, yellows and orange colors, and also a little blue.
Panel SettingsHSL
Gradient filter inCamera Raw
As well as using a filter on your lens while shooting, you can also add a gradient filter in Camera Raw. The beauty of using it in Photoshop is that you can do very fine settings of your image depending on where you place the Gradient Filter Tool.
Click on the Gradient Filter icon at the top of the screen and you will see a new dialog box with very similar functionality as basic module Camera Raw. The difference here is that you will be clicking and dragging the filter down to highlight the sky. You can also click and drag from bottom to top to select the foreground. I'll do both (The gradient filter is applied to the image from the edge inwards).
Starting at the top, I click and drag the filter up to just over halfway through my image. This limits the effect to the top half. It's a gradient filter, so the effect will blend correctly and you won't see a hard line where it ends (the more you drag it, the wider the blending area, you can adjust that later too). I make some adjustments and you can see the difference in the sky area. Once you're done with one filter, click New (at the top of the dialog box) and repeat the process, but this time drag up from the bottom to edit the foreground. Once you've made all the adjustments, you can click Open Image at the bottom of the Camera Raw window to open it in Photoshop.
The Gradient Filter icon is highlighted
One of key settings The tool that needs to be mentioned here is the Remove Haze tool. It does exactly what it says - removes haze and creates better contrast. Use it with caution, it can easily be overdone and your image will suffer as a result. This tool is really very useful for landscapes and sea views, as they often have haze, as was the case in my case. With its help, the haze was easily removed and the image became better.
You'll notice that you can also remove haze in the Gradient Filter window. Choose when to apply it at your discretion, but keep in mind that using it without a selection will apply the effect to the entire image. Using it here in the Gradient Filter means you'll have finer control over how it affects the image.
Click and drag the Gradient Filter from top to bottom to highlight the sky. Then select settingsthat you want to apply.
Selecting the foreground by dragging from bottom to top.
Open your image inPhotoshop
Once you've made all the adjustments in Camera Raw, the finishing touches can be done in Adobe Photoshop. Once again, the sky and foreground of this image will look different, so they need different settings.
To make a softer selection of the sky, click on the Quick Mask tool at the bottom of the left side Photoshop panels. Then you can use soft brush to paint on the selected sky as a mask. Once you're happy with the selection (you'll see a red mask), click on the Quick Mask tool again to activate that selection. There is one trick regarding the Quick Mask that is worth mentioning. A mask means you select everything that is NOT red. So when you click on Quick Mask, you'll see a blinking highlight around the bottom of the image rather than around the red area. This is good because you can switch between these two areas very easily and apply the settings to each selection.
First of all, do necessary settings foreground using Levels. In this image, I wanted to make the foreground a little brighter, so I turned up the highlights. Next, I selected the opposite side (i.e. the sky). You can do this by holding down CTRL>SHIFT>I at the same time. This will switch the selection from foreground to background.
Red indicates the area that will be under the mask
Flashing dots show where the current selection is.
Setting Foreground Levels
CTRL>SHIFT> I will switch the selection, here the sky was selected and a Levels adjustment layer was applied to adjust the sky
Use Hue/Saturation to make final color adjustments
You can use the toggle function (CTRL>SHIFT>I) to select the sky and foreground alternately. Once you've made a selection, select the adjustment tool and the changes will be applied only to the selected area. In this example, I used the Hue/Saturation function to further enhance the image. I re-correct each channel. It gives me control color range, which needs to be made more saturated, and perhaps desaturate the rest, which are slightly oversaturated. Go through each channel and make the necessary adjustments.
Hue/Saturation for final color adjustments
When you're done, you can sharpen the image as much as you like and save it for printing. The steps above will help you make any image better. If done correctly, your image will become more expressive and dramatic, just like you wanted.
Try it out and learn the process, these settings are done really quickly.
Final image
Translation: Tatyana Saprykina
Who among modern people does not like to take photographs? Digital photographs have become almost one of the important components of our lives: mobile convenient selfies, sophisticated photo shoots and simply amateur shots. People love high-quality, good photographs with which they capture important events, your family, unique places. And more and more often they are used to create such photographs. SLR cameras, and all resulting frames undergo graphic processing.
How to open RAW in Photoshop is asked by many photography enthusiasts and image edits. It would seem that it could be simpler, but in fact, this problem has several nuances.
To answer the question of how to open the Rav camera in Photoshop, you first need to figure out what kind of format it is and why is it needed? "RAW" with English language translates as raw, unprocessed, and in our case means format digital photography, which contains the raw data. Files of this format are usually obtained when using SLR, mirrorless, semi-professional digital cameras with non-replaceable lenses. Processing a photo card in the Rav format makes it possible to modify the frame parameters: exposure, saturation, white balance, sharpness, brightness, contrast. All changes can be made before editing. This function makes it possible to obtain the final photograph without losing either too dark or light areas of the frame.
Rav format files supported a large number graphics programs.
Why doesn't Photoshop open RAW? In fact, in Photoshop you can open RAW format photos, however, for this, three programs are used in conjunction - the Camera RAW converter, Adobe Bridge utilities, Adobe Photoshop. These utilities are interconnected and are a single mechanism for editing and processing raster images and snapshots.
How to open Camera RAW in Photoshop?
Go to the editor's main menu, select the "File" menu and the "Open" command. In the window that appears, select required file Rav. Select it with the mouse and click the “Open” button. This way the file will open immediately in the converter. This method is also used to open several files at once.
Opening RAW via Adobe Bridge
How to upload one photo
To open one image in the converter, you need to select the photo in the Adobe Bridge mini-image window by clicking the left mouse button, then use Ctrl+R. Or right-click on the thumbnail of the image, and from the menu that appears, select the “Open in Camera RAW” command. In this case, the picture will appear in the converter window, without using Photoshop, ready for transformation.
Having opened a photo in Rav format, you can then edit and correct it with your own in various ways, achieving the desired result.
How to upload multiple photos at once
To load multiple images into Camera RAW, you need to select them in the Adobe Bridge thumbnail window by simultaneously pressing the Ctrl/Shift keys and selecting them with the mouse, then press Ctrl+R. Then click right click, select the “Open in Camera RAW” command, you can also use clicking the aperture icon, which is located under the main menu.
After committing the above actions All your selected images will appear in the converter. Their smaller copies will be available on the left side of the window, which allows you to conveniently switch between pictures. If the thumbnail strip interferes with your work, then you can move its border to the left side of the editor interface, in which case it will be minimized, and the selected picture will be stretched to fill the entire screen.
How to properly close a photo after editing?
To properly close the photo, saving all the changes and adjustments made, click on the “Done” button, which is located at the bottom of the program window. If you want to save the photo without saving the edit in RAV format, you just need to select “Cancel”. If you need to return to Photoshop and transfer the photo card there while saving all the settings made, you must use the “Open Image” command.
Working with Rav extension files is very convenient and easy using Photoshop. This editor in conjunction with a converter allows you to change, edit and process your photos and images to obtain the desired result, making them brighter, richer and more interesting.