What types of electrical outlets are there? American socket and plug. Adapter from American to European outlet
We purchase a lot of electrical household appliances of varying power, made in EU countries, whose power cords end with European-type electrical plugs. It is known that they differ not only in the diameter of the metal part from our domestic ones, but also in their shape, greater potential power and the presence of one or two grounding contacts. But we must not forget about the so-called “Soviet” type, which is still widely used in Russia and the CIS countries along with electrical appliances of past times; therefore, we will begin a brief review of European-type electrical plugs with them.
One of the most common plug designs in the USSR, designed for 220V, 6A
This type, called Soviet C1/B, is still produced in our homeland and in terms of its qualities it can be equated to the European type CEE 7/16 Europlug. Electrical plugs of this type are designed for a current of 6 A and 10 A at a voltage of 220 - 250 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. They do not have grounding terminals, but they have one advantage, which is that their design is collapsible, which means that if the cable is damaged, you can replace it, leaving the socket the same and without spending money on a new one. The diameter of the pins in the Soviet plug is 4 mm.
The next type of electrical plug, which also has pins with a diameter of 4 mm and which is widespread in European countries except England, Ireland and Malta, belongs to the CEE 7/16 Europlug class. It is used when operating low-power household electrical appliances, without grounding contacts and is designed for a current of up to 2.5 A at a voltage of 1100 - 220 V. Compatible with classes C, C1, E, F.
Type C6 (in Europe CEE 7/17) we have a “Euro plug”, with round pins (knives) with a diameter of 4.8 mm
But the French type of electrical plug has metal pins with a diameter of 4.8 mm and one grounding contact. Widely used in France, Poland and Belgium. Used for medium-power appliances such as vacuum cleaners, air conditioners, water heaters, etc. This type of plug can withstand current up to 16 A at a voltage of 220 - 250 V. Compatible with sockets of type C, E, F, but with Soviet type C1 /B are incompatible and can only be used with an adapter.
For electrical appliances of medium and high power consumption, the European German type of plugs “Schuko” CEE 7/4 is used, which is widespread in Germany, Sweden, Norway and Holland.
CEE 7/4 Schuko plug and Schuko socket
Designed for a current of up to 16 A, in some versions up to 25 A at a voltage of 220 - 250 V, has a pin diameter of 4.8 mm, one grounding pin and is compatible with sockets C and F. According to its characteristics, “Schuko” CEE 7/4 Suitable for French type E CEE 7/5 plugs.
There is also a hybrid type of E/F electrical plugs - CTT 7|7, which combines German and French quality. Very common in European Union countries when using medium and high power consumption devices. They have a grounding contact and are suitable for sockets of type C, E and F with a metal pin diameter of 4.8 mm.
October 12th, 2017
This is really very inconvenient. Okay, people used to travel a little around the world, now it’s practically not a luxury. Remember, when household appliances assembled in Europe began to arrive in Russia, how many problems there were with our Soviet sockets. We bought adapters, they burned out. Only not long ago we finally got rid of this problem.
I was in Cyprus in the spring - there are very unusual British outlets there. You can’t buy adapters in a small town in Russia; upon arrival you had to run around, look for them, and overpay. I’m going to the Dominican Republic soon - and there are different outlets there again, American (sort of). Adapters will again have to be purchased locally and not in 1 copy.
And why...
In the era of electrification, inventors from different countries offered their own versions of optimal sockets; Different types of power generators were built all over the world.
Firstly, the struggle between technologies at the dawn of the development of electricity left its mark. We are talking about the confrontation between Thomas Edison and Nikola Tesla in the creation of DC and AC networks, respectively. Although we know that AC power plants ultimately won out, the DC infrastructure built in the US up until the 1920s (and in Stockholm into the 1950s) has to be maintained and used right up to the present day. .
Secondly, many inventors offered their own versions of optimal (in their opinion) sockets. For example, in 1904, American inventor Harvey Hubbel received a patent for the first electrical outlet. By its design, it was a kind of adapter between an electric cartridge and a plug. The adapter was screwed into the socket instead of a light bulb, and some electrical appliance was connected to it.
The German engineer Albert Büttner created the “Euro socket” we know today in 1926. And the first grounded socket was created by Philippe Labre in 1927.
And national companies involved in the installation of electrical networks supplied their devices suitable for these networks. Accordingly, different types of plug connectors and sockets were introduced and their own networks were designed. The developments of other countries were completely ignored.
Influenced the development of sockets and the availability of materials. For example, during World War II, Britain came up with a three-prong plug with a short copper fuse. This design made it possible to save copper reserves for military needs. Interestingly, the use of the three-prong plug in the UK was in stark contrast to the rest of Europe and even North America, where two-prong plugs were widely used and also varied in design, all due to poor communication in the early days development of electricity supply.
Now, according to one classification, there are 12 types of sockets, according to another - 15. Moreover, sockets of one type sometimes accept plugs of another. However, if you find out that the country you are going to has the same type of socket as at home, don’t rush to rejoice! This is only half the problem. Voltage and frequency may vary in different parts of the world.
Classification of types of sockets and plugs in different countries of the world
The two most common standards are: European - 220-240 V at a frequency of 50 Hz and American - 100-127 V at a frequency of 60 Hz. You should not check what will happen if an electrical appliance operating on 100-127 V is plugged into an outlet with 220-240 V.
In some countries you should keep your ears open. For example, in most areas of Brazil, 127 V is used, but in the north of the country 220 V is found. And in Japan, the voltage is the same everywhere - 110 V, but the frequency is different: in the east 50 Hz is used, in the west - 60 Hz. The reason is simple: first, German-made generators with a frequency of 50 Hz were purchased for Tokyo, and soon after that American ones with a frequency of 60 Hz were supplied to Osaka.
Perhaps someday a single standard will be adopted. A universal socket for all types of plugs has already been developed. But for now it’s up to everyone to install it or not. In addition, we first need to come to a unified voltage standard. And this comes down to huge financial costs for the refurbishment and re-equipment of transformer substations, replacement of sockets and plugs.
* Voltage 100-127 V at a frequency of 60 Hz is used by the USA, Canada, Japan, Mexico, Cuba, Jamaica, partially Brazil and other countries.* Voltage 220-240 V with a frequency of 50 Hz is used in most other countries, but even with the same parameters, the type of sockets can vary greatly.
Here is a brief description of some of them:
Types A and B - American socket
Type B differs from A by the presence of a third hole - it is intended for a grounding pin. Such sockets, as you can guess from the name, were invented in the USA and are widespread in North, Central and partly South America, as well as Japan and some other countries.
Types C and F - European socket
Just like A and B, types C and F differ from each other only in the presence of grounding - F has it. The European socket is used in most countries of the European Union, as well as in Russia and the CIS, Algeria, Egypt and many other countries.
Type G - British socket
In the UK, the socket has three flat holes, and this design appeared for a reason. The fact is that during World War II the country experienced a copper shortage. Therefore, a plug with a short copper fuse and three pins was developed. In addition to Great Britain, the same socket is used in Cyprus, Malta, Singapore and other countries that were influenced by the British Empire.
Type I - Australian socket
This type of socket can be found not only in Australia, but also in New Zealand, Fiji, Cook Islands, Kiribati, New Guinea, Samoa and sometimes in China, where types A and C are also common.
Type H - Israeli socket
Type H is used only in Israel and Palestine, and the pins of the plug can be either round or flat, depending on when the device was manufactured. The old equipment had a flat socket shape, but new sockets are suitable for two options.
Type K - Danish socket
This outlet can easily claim the title of “friendliest” in the world - its design resembles a smiling face. In addition to Denmark and Greenland, which is part of it, type K is used in Bangladesh and the Maldives - however, several types of sockets are common there.
Luckily, all these differences won't ruin your vacation or business trip—you just need to purchase the right adapter in advance.
Map showing the distribution of different types of sockets used around the world.(link to interactive map)
A world map shows the distribution of different types of sockets in use around the world. Countries using Types A and B are highlighted in red, countries using Types C and E/F (which are 100% compatible with each other) are highlighted in dark blue, countries using Type D are highlighted in brown, British Type G is in aqua, Israeli Types C and H are in pink. , countries using Australian type I are highlighted in yellow, countries using C and J in black, types C and K in gray, types C and L in orange, type M in purple in South Africa, type N in pale blue, and Thailand in dark green. Types C and O. Please note that this simplified overview only shows the most common plug type, and sometimes several systems in the same country.
For a complete and thorough overview of the electrical plugs used in each country, click .
List of countries around the world with corresponding plug and socket types, voltage and frequency. link worldstandards.eu/electrici...
A complete overview of all countries in the world and their respective plugs/sockets and voltages/frequencies used for home appliances. The table shows that most countries have electricity supplies between 220 and 240 volts (50 or 60 Hz), far superior to countries operating at 100 to 127 volts. The list also shows that types A and C are the most commonly used electrical plugs around the world.
Most countries have a clearly defined plug and voltage standard. However, many Latin American, African and Asian countries use a motley collection of often incompatible plugs, and sometimes the voltage differs from region to region. This situation makes it difficult for travelers to assess which adapter or transformer connector is needed for a trip. In this case, when the electricity situation in a country requires additional information, the name of the country in question is highlighted in red. This link will take you to a detailed description: worldstandards.eu/electrici...
Electrical appliances today are the main tools in everyday life (and not only), which have certain characteristics of power consumption, current and voltage.
Based on these parameters, they plan a particular power network, selecting their elements: solid or stranded conductors (wires), as well as various types of sockets, which, in fact, will be discussed in this article.
So, a socket is an element of an electrical network through which a detachable connection (connection) of an electrical device to a power source is made - the electrical network. Different countries apply different standards, and accordingly the design and other parameters vary somewhat.
However, in order to successfully make a choice, to find out how to choose the right outlet, you should be guided by the following basic data:
- total power of devices connected to the outlet;
- type of plug connected to the socket of an electrical appliance;
- location and humidity and temperature conditions of the room;
- appropriate type of design and method of installation of the socket;
- the need for a built-in electronic component.
It is clear that you need to focus on the power of the device so that the outlet, designed for a lower consumer power, does not overheat. You should also pay attention to what kind of plug the device has, because Soviet standards are still used, which are not compatible. In addition, sockets are classified according to the tightness of the housing and other parameters, which we will consider below.
Types of sockets according to the power of connected consumers
The total wattage of the appliances connected to the outlet is a key aspect of outlet selection.
Ideally, each appliance should have one outlet and wiring line, but sometimes there is an unplanned need to connect two or more appliances to one outlet through a special electrical coupler.
There is a formula by which you can find out which sockets to choose for a particular device (with a substantial margin, preferably), based on its power consumption, which is measured in Watts (denoted by the letter W or Russian V):
That is, the current measured in amperes (A) is equal to the power of the device (W, Watt) divided by the voltage (V, Volt). The fact is that circuit breakers and sockets are selected according to current strength, and only the power consumption is mentioned on the devices, so it is necessary to convert the values using this formula in order to compare them.
In practice, it looks like this: the electric stove has a power of 5 kilowatts, that is, 5000 watts and is designed for a voltage of 220 volts, respectively, 5000/220 = 22.7A. This means that the electrical outlet must be designed for at least this current strength.
Old, Soviet-style sockets were used with a power of 6A and 10A, while modern household sockets are designed for a maximum threshold of 16A; power sockets are a separate class (not related to household ones, but used in everyday life in a number of cases). Such power devices used in everyday life include an electrical outlet for an electric stove, which is designed for more than 16A - 25A and even more - 32A. However, most often high-power devices that require more than 25A are connected in a permanent way, that is, directly with a power electrical cable.
Here we are talking about the standards that are used in post-Soviet territories and EU countries.
There are two main types, from which you can determine which sockets to choose for an apartment or house, focusing on the type of plug and the presence/absence of a grounding conductor.
They (types of sockets and plugs) are designated by letters, the most common and universal is the European type C without a grounding contact, the so-called “Europlug”, which is universal for the still common Soviet C1/C, as well as European ones with grounding - French E and German F.
You can clearly observe the most common types of sockets in different countries of the European Union and CIS countries in the table below.
The most common types of household sockets in the CIS and Europe
Type C "Europlug" |
 |
It is used in all CIS countries and most European countries. Fully compatible with plugs of types E, F and Soviet C1/B. Current strength – 6A, 10A, 16A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. There is no ground connection. Application – low and medium power household appliances that do not require grounding. |
| Used in some European countries: France, Belgium, Poland, Slovakia, Czech Republic, Tunisia and Morocco. Rarely in CIS countries. Fully compatible with type C (CEE 7/17) and E/F (EE 7/7) plugs. Current strength – 10A, 16A inclusive. Voltage – 250V, frequency – 50Hz. There is a ground contact. Application – medium power household appliances with grounding. | ||
Type F "Schuko" |
Used in most European countries (especially eastern ones), this German standard of sockets is widespread in the market of the CIS countries. Fully compatible with type C, E/F plugs; partially E (without contact of grounding contacts). Current strength is 16A (simple household) and 25A (power for electric stoves). Voltage 250V and 380V respectively, frequency – 50Hz. |
Soviet standard sockets (C1/A) are similar to type C “Europlug”, but are designed for plugs with pins with a diameter of 4 mm, which makes it impossible to connect plugs of types E and F, as well as type C of modification CEE 7/17 (with a plug diameter of 4 .8 mm). Of the modern plugs, Soviet sockets support only CEE 7/16 type C. To give you a clear idea of what kind of plug these are, below is a table of their types, markings and capacities.
The most common types of household appliance plugs in the CIS and Europe
Soviet C1/B |
 |
Still produced and used in the CIS countries as an alternative to CEE 7/16 Europlug (generally a higher quality alternative). Current strength – 6A, 10A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. Without grounding, compatible with European standards C, E, F modification without a round rim (or if the rim is broken off). |
Pan-European CEE 7/16 (Europlug) |
 |
Most popular in Europe, with the exception of the countries: Cyprus, Malta, Ireland, United Kingdom. Used to power low-power devices without the need for grounding. Designed for a current of 2.5A, voltage 110-250V, frequency - 50Hz. Compatible with standards: C, C1, E, F. |
Pan-European CEE 7/17 |
 |
Applicable in the CIS and European countries, except those listed above. Application – power supply of low and medium power household appliances that do not require a ground loop. Current strength – 16A. Voltage – 220-250V, frequency – 50Hz. Compatible with C, E, F. Not compatible with Soviet C1. |
European French E CEE 7/5 |
 |
Consists of application in France, Belgium, Poland. Application – power supply of household appliances of small, medium and higher power that require grounding. Designed for current 16A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with type C and E sockets respectively. |
European German F under "Schuko", CEE 7/4 |
 |
Widely distributed in the CIS countries, as well as in European Germany, Austria, Sweden, Norway and Holland. Application – power supply of medium and high power household appliances that require grounding. Current strength is 16A, there are modifications of 25A, voltage 250V, frequency 50Hz. Compatible with socket type C and F respectively. |
European Hybrid E/F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7 |
 |
Widely distributed in the European Union and CIS countries. It has a grounding conductor compatible with that on sockets of type E, F. It is used to power household appliances of low, medium and high power. Power characteristics are equal to those of CEE 7/4 and CEE 7/5. Compatible with sockets types C, E, F. |
This was a list of sockets and plugs of the types that are used in the CIS and Europe. A huge number of household appliances such as microwaves, refrigerators, dishwashers, heaters, electric kettles, washing machines and similar energy-intensive appliances with grounding are supplied with a plug cord of the hybrid E/F CEE7/7 type.
Type F CEE 7/4 plugs are also widely used in such devices, but a French socket with a protruding ground pin will not fit. Therefore, for such devices, the types of electrical sockets of which are located respectively in the kitchen or bathroom and power such devices, type F “Schuko” is installed, since both types of plugs are suitable for them.
Particular attention should be paid to the room for which the outlet is selected. If this is a bathroom or a kitchen area close to water, then you need to select an appropriate waterproof outlet. The same applies to sockets located outside the house and in open gazebos.
In the rooms you can install an ordinary socket, but in the hallway, for example, where dust is brought from people with their outerwear, you should choose a dust-resistant socket. At the same time, the sockets have two protection factors from both influences and how to choose sockets based on them, let’s look at the markings of the sockets of which, by the way, there are two:
- IP marking;
- NEMA/UL marking.
IP marking is a set of characters made up of letters and numbers, for example IP30. The first combination of letters IP is an abbreviation for “International Perfection”, that is, “International Protection”, which indicates the degree of tightness of the case against the ingress of moisture and dust particles inside.
Next come the numbers, the first indicates the degree of protection from dust, chips and other solids, as well as touches. The second is an indicator of protection from water, that is, IP30 is a simple household socket with protection against solid particles of a certain size (see table below) and no protection from any influence of water. Let us present a table of decoding of these numerical values.
IP markings for protection against contact, large and small solids, and dust
| Type of protection | digit X (IP X Y) |
Degree of protection | What can it protect against? | Graphic symbol IP |
| 0 | Without protection from anything | Will not protect against contact with anything | ||
| 1 | Does not pass solid bodies measuring 50 mm or larger | From large parts of the body, will not protect against finger contact | ||
| 2 | Rejects solids 12.5 mm and larger | Protection against unconscious touching by hands, fingers and similar sized bodies | ||
| 3 | Does not allow solid bodies 2.5 mm or larger to pass through | Protects against penetration by tools, cables, large wires and similar objects | ||
| 4 | Does not pass solids 1.0 mm or larger | Perhaps it will protect against the penetration of needles of thin tweezers, most wires (if there are children) | ||
| 5 | Partially sealed against dust | Completely protects against contact; the smallest dust (which does not interfere with operation) can penetrate inside | ||
| 6 | Absolutely sealed against dust | Complete protection against any objects and any dust particles, even the finest |
IP markings for protection against water influences of different intensity and angle
| Type of protection | Digit Y (IPX Y) | Degree of protection | What can it protect against? | Graphic symbol IP |
| 0 | Without protection from anything | Does not protect against the slightest moisture | ||
| 1 | Protection against vertically falling drops | From short circuit through water in wet rooms in a given vertical position | ||
| 2 | Protection against vertically falling drops, at a slight angle of up to 15 degrees | From short circuit through water acting at a given slope angle | ||
| 3 | Protection against drops falling at an angle of up to 60 degrees | Protection against short circuit due to rain and splashing water directed at the appropriate degree | ||
| 4 | Protection against splashes, regardless of the angle of impact | Protection against short circuit due to rain and splashing water, splashing at an angle from below | ||
| 5 | Protection against jets, regardless of impact angle | Protection from electricity in the area exposed to showers and other medium-power water jets. | ||
| 6 | Protection from frequent and increased exposure to water flows | Protection against short circuits in conditions of intensive washing, strong and constant jets of water, even sea waves | ||
| 7 | Sealed when immersed in water up to 1 m deep for a short time | Protection against short circuit in conditions of snow cover, temporary drowning due to snow melting or rain | ||
| 8 | Tightness when immersed in water to a depth exceeding 1 m | Full protection against short circuit during prolonged exposure to water, but without exposure to significant water pressure | ||
| 9 | Sealed for unlimited immersion in water under pressure | Full underwater functionality, absolute protection against water ingress and short circuits due to it |
Also, this marking may use a third digit, which indicates the shock resistance of the case, but this is not relevant in household sockets, so we will not consider it. There may also be letters after the digital value: H (indicates a high-voltage device), M (tested in working condition against water ingress), S (tested in inoperative condition against water ingress), W (with protective equipment additionally specified).
NEMA/UL marking
represented by the abbreviation “NEMA” followed by one or two numbers, with or without a letter at the end, for example NEMA/UL 3R. These four letters stand for National Electrical Manufacturers Association; UL stands for Underwriters' Laboratories.
This marking also indicates that these outlet standards are used in the USA and are certified accordingly. In the CIS and many European countries, this standard is very rarely used, but it is worth considering. There is a table with which you can decipher what the marking on the socket means, and also compare it with IP, we will consider it further.
Nema standard markings
| Nema |
IP Compliant |
Application of the standard |
| 1 | IP20, IP30 | It is used in domestic and administrative premises, has an appropriate level of protection against dirt, as well as unintentional touching and touching with fingers |
| 2 | IP21, IP31 | Used in domestic premises where there is a chance of small amounts of water and dirt getting into the socket body |
| 3 | IP64 | It is used outdoors, where temporary exposure to wind blowing fine dust, precipitation, and icing is possible. |
| 3R | IP32, IP34 | Can be used outdoors, withstands temporary exposure to precipitation, as well as icing |
| 3S | IP64 | It is used outdoors where there is precipitation, wet snow, dust and wind. Ice accumulation does not interfere with further operation. |
| 4 | IP56, IP65, IP66 | It is used outdoors, near the road, where there is dirt, water sprayed from cars, and under similar loads. |
| 4X | It is used outdoors, where there is aggressive precipitation, wind with dust and jets of water under high pressure; corrosion and ice resistance | |
| 6, 6P | IP65, IP66, IP67 | Sealed housing designed to survive underwater for long periods of time and shallow depths |
| 11 | Not suitable for use in domestic premises or for premises with aggressive corrosive environments | |
| 12, 12K | IP52, IP65 | It is used indoors and is resistant to contamination from dust, ingress of dirt and dripping non-corrosive liquids |
| 13 | IP54, IP65 | Used indoors; resistance to contamination by dust, ingress of dirt, splashed oil, water, non-corrosive coolants |
Occasionally you can see 125/250V power cords supplied with computer equipment (monitors, power supplies) with two flat parallel perforated or solid contacts and one round - these are cords with a NEMA 5-15 connector, designed for the corresponding outlet.
They are widespread in the USA, and it makes no sense to get an American standard socket for them in the CIS; it is better to separately purchase a cord at the other end with a CEE 7/4 connector for socket type F (Schuko) or a hybrid CEE 7/7 compatible with sockets of type E and F. You can also use an adapter, but the first option is best with almost equal financial costs.
There are other types of markings that indicate the strength of the housing, for example IK, accompanied by a digital value from 00 to 10, however, when choosing a household outlet this is not relevant and is not worth considering.
Types of sockets by design and installation method
When choosing a socket, it is important to take into account the material from which the walls of the room are made, since this determines which sockets are best to choose - for a hidden or open installation method.
You can learn more about the basics of installation using these methods in the article “”, but now let’s look at the purely constructive part.
In addition, sockets are distinguished by the number of modules, which determines the number of connections, and there is also a division according to the materials from which their core is made. Regarding the installation method, sockets can be divided into:
- invoices;
- built-in;
- portable.
In part, the installation method also dictates their design, which is manifested in the presence or absence of certain fasteners and mechanisms. Also, the design of the body itself differs, in general, let's look at it.
Overhead sockets
used in cases where an open installation method is required.
For example, in the case of a wall made of logs in a wooden house, when it is impossible, according to standards and fire safety, to make slots in a solid log and install electrical elements there.
Thus, the wires are laid along the surface of the wall and external electrical sockets are connected to them and mounted on a socket box that is pre-installed on the wall plane.
There is another type of overhead sockets that are mounted on baseboards if the wiring runs through them.
They do not look aesthetically pleasing, and are also considered less reliable and more often break when the plug is suddenly pulled out than built-in sockets, but in a log house the only alternative is portable sockets.
Built-in sockets
used in the construction of walls made of reinforced concrete, brick, and blocks.
They are also mounted in hollow core panel partitions made of fiberboard, chipboard, MDF and plasterboard.
They are mounted in a special plastic mounting box, installed in advance in a hole made in the wall or partition.
The design of the socket core includes special spacer tabs that secure it (the core) inside the mounting box, adjusting the force of the expansion with special screws.
Thus, all the working elements and internal electrical cores of the socket are located in the thickness of the wall; only a restrictive metal (or plastic) frame protrudes outside, which is then hidden by the socket body.
Portable sockets
can be found on sale as extension cords; they come complete with a cord with a plug (most often a hybrid E/F (Germany-France) CEE 7/7).
There are also many configurations available without a cord, which can easily be connected to an electrical cable outlet from a wall or baseboard, thus avoiding installation work using wall methods. However, such sockets are rarely used directly.
The housing is unscrewed into two halves using structural screws, the cable is clamped with a common clamp, and the contacts are clamped into clamp terminals. The design of such portable sockets can often include a power on/off button, as well as a power indicator, which makes them convenient.
It is worth noting that the photo shows a very interesting and intricate socket, which is classified according to the installation method as a stationary built-in one, but has a portable element - a socket for a plug on an extension wire.
Design and arrangement of a household electrical outlet
The design of a socket for concealed installation is considered the most complex, since it has additional fasteners that are used to install them.
They can also be with or without grounding, with grounding contacts of different shapes and conductor area/section.
As for the durability and reliability of the socket, this depends on the alloy from which the contacts are made, as well as the base material. A new type of electrical outlet used in modern everyday life consists of the following components:
- input contacts/terminals;
- output contacts;
- grounding contact (if any);
- insulator/base;
- frame.
Of course, the socket kit may contain additional elements, such as “curtains” (latches) or covers to prevent water from entering, various relays and other elements, but now we will consider a classic socket for installation in a hidden way without any bells and whistles.
Input pins , they are also terminals, are located at the end of the socket and are intended for connecting electrical neutral and phase conductors, as well as a grounding conductor.
There are two types of wire fastenings that a modern socket has, contacts and terminals: screw and screwless.
Screw connections secure the wire between two plates, fastened together with a screw that is manually tightened by an electrician.
Screwless ones have a spring element that presses the plates, keeping them constantly under pressure, pressed.
Screwless clamps are considered more reliable, since under the influence of vibrations from the frequency of the current, the contact does not become loose or weaken.
The material from which the input contact plates are made is brass and bronze. Brass contacts are considered short-lived and quickly deteriorate in high humidity, and they also get very hot and are poorly compatible with aluminum wiring.
Output contacts
, that is, detachable into which the pins of the plug are connected, also called jaws, petals (but the socket with a grounding contact has a separately located conductor).
These detachable contacts consist of pairs of parallel plates with oval extensions at the point where the pin is connected. The old plates had special spring clamps that prevented them from deforming and weakening.
The materials for the manufacture of output contact plates are brass (tinned or uncoated) and bronze. Brass plates weaken over time and do not provide proper clamping of the plug pins, causing sparking and melting of the housing. Tinned brass is more resistant to increased moisture, conducts current better and heats up less.
Plates made from a modern composition - phosphor bronze, have a good coefficient of spring deformation, accordingly weaken less, and also heat up less and contribute to greater throughput. There are also silver-plated contacts, which have the best characteristics of current conductivity, reliability and durability.
Ground contact
(PE yellow, yellow-green wire) is available in modern sockets, the most common in the CIS is a plug socket with a grounding contact, type F, in which this conductor is supplied in the form of a bracket that clasps the plug where it has grounding contacts.
From a technical point of view, there is nothing to describe, if we talk about standards and grounding devices, then there are the following main types: TN-C, TN-S, TN-C-S.
When grounding TN-C, the grounding conductor is connected to the working neutral conductor because there is no separate grounding line.
If these conductors are combined in the socket, then if there is a current leak, a short circuit will occur, which, in theory, should trip the circuit breaker.
With the TN-S system, there is a cable in the house that is responsible for grounding, and it is connected to the grounding terminal of the socket. With TN-C-S, the common wire is also connected to the neutral and ground contact of the socket, but later it is disconnected to the ground and neutral conductor, respectively.
Insulator
, also known as the dielectric component of the socket, is the very core of the socket with all the elements described above contained on it, fixed with rivets or screws.
This element, also referred to as the base of the socket, is the only one that does not allow current to pass through, besides the housing cover. The mounting spacer brackets can also be attached to the base.
Depending on the material from which they are made, there are sockets with a ceramic base and with a plastic base. The ceramic base is made from porcelain material and has the best resistance to high temperatures, but at the same time is more fragile than plastic bases for sockets. As for the plastic bases of the sockets, they are refractory, but are more susceptible to charring.
consists of a metal frame attached to the base. On the sides of this frame there can be spacer legs for fastening in the box.
On the front side, it is a restrictive metal rectangular frame that prevents the entire structure of the socket from being sunk deeper than it should be. The frame also provides support against the wall, thus making the entire supporting structure rigid.
The frame may have holes for additional fastening with self-tapping screws to the edge of the mounting box, as well as holes for latches of the plastic frame of the socket. The socket frame is mounted on top of it with a screw (in the center) or/and additionally with latches.
The socket frame can be solid or consist of a rim and a core, in which there are holes for power and grounding contacts, as well as a mounting screw in the center. In the second case, the core presses the frame against the metal frame pressed into the wall.
This configuration of the socket body is used if a double electrical socket is required, or even a triple-quadruple one, that is, paired using a separately purchased frame with the appropriate number of sections.
Cheap sockets use low-quality plastic, the frames of which become yellow within a couple of years or lose color in the case of colored plastic. Also, it (cheap plastic) chars, cracks and crumbles faster.
Types of sockets with built-in electronic components and additional components
In addition to standard sockets, which only have a socket for connecting a plug, there are sockets with built-in electronics, universal sockets for any type of plug, as well as sockets with special latches to protect children from electric shock and hermetically sealed lids for rooms with particularly high humidity. Let us next consider which sockets are appropriate to install in this or that case.
(residual current device) is wise to install in rooms where there is a high probability of electric shock, both directly and through the device connected to it.
The essence of the built-in residual current device is that it measures the current leakage that occurs in the event of an electric shock to a person or current leakage through water, through the device body through structural parts of the building, etc.
At the same moment when current leakage occurs, the relay that powers the output contacts of the socket opens. The maximum that can happen is a slight electric shock or a tiny leak, but health will not be affected, and the electrical system will remain intact.
Socket with built-in time controller
(time relay) is useful in cases where it is necessary to turn off the device after a while, but there is no one to do it. For example, an air compressor for an aquarium, an electric heater, etc.
The element that controls the operating time and disconnection of the outlet from power can be mechanical or electronic.
A mechanical controller, as a rule, opens the contacts after loosening a pre-tensioned (by turning) spring element, a socket with a timer, in other words.
The electronic controller contains a microprocessor that acts on the territorial key, turning off the power, and can be programmed for complex time tasks, for a time schedule of repeated power on and off.
Today it is not common in its stationary varieties, but there is already a prototype developed by designer Muhyeon Kim.
In addition to the digital consumption indicator, it has a backlight, which, depending on consumption, changes colors in the palette from blue (at minimum consumption) to red (at maximum consumption).
The idea of such an outlet is quite clear - to control the electricity consumption of the device connected to such an outlet. It can be a very useful device, for example, if you turned on a one and a half kW UFO heater and, in addition to monitoring the feeling of temperature, you can clearly see how much electricity is being consumed, based on this, look for a middle ground.
has a form of detachable contacts that will fit almost any type of plug and grounding contact.
In addition, many of them have a built-in USB charging adapter (in the one in the photo at the top, the lid opens to reveal USB connectors).
It is not widespread and is not particularly popular in the CIS, since the plug connector standards used are uniform and compatible with each other, and US standards are not used in everyday life at all.
As for protected sockets, there are two types: with “curtains” and with covers. The first are childproof sockets; they have protection in the form of flaps inside the lid; when pressed firmly with a fork, powerful spring elements bend and the curtains turn into the free space of the case. They are a protection against small children if they decide to poke a knitting needle or a screwdriver into the socket.
With covers, sockets do not pose a hindrance to children, therefore they are installed if there is no such threat and only in rooms with high humidity. There, depending on the tightness, there are different designs (with and without a seal).
If you order various electrical appliances and devices through foreign online stores like Aliexpress or Ebay, then in the order parameters you will often find a selection option - US plug, UK plug, EU plug or AU plug. What is this and what does this designation mean?!
You probably know that there are different types of electrical outlets used around the world. So, to indicate the type of connector used by the device for connecting to the electrical network, special symbols are used. What is their difference? Here are the four main types of plugs:
1. UK Plug- English or British socket, type G (three flat pins). Used in the UK, Singapore, Malta and Cyprus. Operating voltage 220-240 Volts.
2.AU Plug- Australian socket, type I. Used in Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand, Fiji, Samoa, China. Operating voltage 220-240 Volts.
3. EU Plug- the so-called “Euro” connector of the socket, type C and F (additionally 2 ground contacts). A regular European socket used in Russia, CIS countries, the European Union, as well as in many other countries (Turkey, Egypt, Algeria, Tunisia, etc.). The voltage used is 220-240 Volts at a frequency of 50 Hz.
4.US Plug— American socket, Type A (two vertical flat pins) and B (with a third hole for grounding). Used in the USA, as well as in the countries of South America and Japan. The voltage used is 100-127 Volts at a frequency of 60 Hz.
In addition, there are a number of less common types of electrical outlet plugs:
There are a total of 12 types of sockets in the world. Among them are Italian, Thai, African, Swiss, Israeli, etc. They are used much less frequently, but nevertheless they also have a place.
Try to imagine homo modernus without mobile phones, cameras, laptops, navigation systems and other gadgets? The answer is simple: it is impossible. Well, all these benefits of civilization cannot exist without “food”; they need recharging.
Therefore, beaches, parks, museums fade into the background, and the first thing a traveler should think about is what kind of sockets and what kind of voltage there will be in the country where he is going.
In most cases, the issue is resolved with the help of an adapter. But it can become useless if the voltage in the network is very different from the native, domestic one. For example, in Europe the voltage varies from 220 to 240 V; in the USA and Japan - from 100 to 127 V. If you don’t guess, you’ll burn your device.
Let's try to understand the intricacies of electrical engineering.
Voltage and frequency
By and large, only two levels of electrical voltage are used in the household network in the world:
European - 220 - 240 V and American - 100 - 127 V, and two AC frequencies - 50 and 60 Hz.
Voltage 220 - 240 V with a frequency of 50 Hz is used by most countries of the world.
Voltage 100 -127 V at a frequency of 60 Hz - in the USA, countries of North, Central and, partially, South America, Japan, etc.
However, there are variations, for example, in the Philippines, 220 V and 60 Hz, and in Madagascar, on the contrary, 100 V and 50 Hz, even within the same country, depending on the region, there may be different standards, for example, in different parts of Brazil , Japan, Saudi Arabia, the Maldives.
Therefore, before you set off, collect as much information as possible about circuits and signals, the types of sockets used in the country and the voltage in the network.
Electrical sockets
There are a lot of sockets, plugs and options for connecting to the electrical network. But don’t be alarmed, there is no need to deal with everyone and look for an adapter for each one.
You need to remember (save, sketch, photograph) the 13 most used types of sockets, which are designated in Latin letters from A to M:
Type A - American electrical socket and plug: two flat parallel contacts. Used in most countries of North and Central America (USA, Canada, Mexico, Venezuela, Guatemala), in Japan, and almost everywhere where the mains voltage is 110 V.
Type B is a variation of the Type A connector, with an additional round ground pin. Typically used in the same countries as the Type A connector.
Type C - European socket and plug. It has two round parallel contacts (without grounding). This is the most popular socket in Europe, excluding England, Ireland, Malta and Cyprus. Used where the voltage is 220V.
Type D is the old British standard with three round contacts arranged in a triangle shape, with one of the contacts thicker than the other two, rated for maximum current. Used in India, Nepal, Namibia, Sri Lanka.
Type E is a plug with two round pins and a hole for the grounding pin, which is located in the socket of the socket. This type is now almost universally used in Poland, France and Belgium.
Type F - The standard is similar to Type E, but instead of a round ground pin there are two metal clamps on both sides of the connector. You will find such sockets in Germany, Austria, Holland, Norway, and Sweden.
Type G - British socket with three flat contacts. Used in England, Ireland, Malta and Cyprus, Malaysia, Singapore and Hong Kong.
Note. This type of outlet often comes with a built-in internal fuse. Therefore, if after connecting the device it does not work, then the first thing to do is check the condition of the fuse in the outlet.
Type H - has three flat contacts or, in an earlier version, round contacts arranged in a V shape. Used only in Israel and the Gaza Strip. Not compatible with any other plug, designed for voltage values of 220 V and current up to 16 A.
Type I - Australian socket: two flat contacts, as in the American type A connector, but they are located at an angle to each other - in the shape of the letter V. Also available in a version with a ground contact. Used in Australia, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea and Argentina.
Type J - Swiss plug and socket. It is similar to the Type C plug, but has an additional grounding pin in the middle and two round power pins. Used in Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Ethiopia, Rwanda and the Maldives.
Type K is a Danish socket and plug, similar to the European Type C, but with a ground pin located at the bottom of the connector. Used in Denmark, Greenland, Bangladesh, Senegal and the Maldives.
Type L - Italian plug and socket, similar to the European Type C socket, but with a round ground pin that is in the center, the two round power pins are arranged unusually in a line. Used in Italy, Chile, Ethiopia, Tunisia and Cuba.
Type M is an African socket and plug with three round pins arranged in a triangle shape, with the ground pin being clearly thicker than the other two. It is similar to the D-type connector, but has much thicker pins. The socket is designed to power devices with a current of up to 15 A. Used in South Africa, Swaziland and Lesotho.
A few words about various types of adapters.
The easiest way to be ready to put the plug into the socket is to purchase an adapter, converter or transformer in advance (it depends on what your needs are). In most hotels, if you contact them, they will select the device you need at the reception.
Adapters - combine your plug with someone else's socket without affecting the voltage, the most versatile device.
Converters - provide conversion of local power grid parameters, but for a short time, up to 2 hours. Suitable for small (camping) household appliances: hair dryer, razor, kettle, iron. Convenient on the road due to its small size and weight.
Transformers are more powerful, larger and more expensive voltage converters designed for continuous operation. Used for complex electrical appliances: computers, TVs, etc.
And at the end, an easy life hack on how to use an English socket without an adapter
Happy travels!
Sources: wikimedia.org, travel.ru, enovator.ru, personal experience.